My Point of Groom

Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew: Episode 2

Mon, 31 Aug 2026 00:01:10 GMT

Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew: Episode 2

Welcome back to Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew , the series where we explain some of the things groomers know from years of standing at a grooming table that pet owners have probably never had a reason to know.

That's actually an important distinction. We don't expect you to know how to groom your dog. If you did, you probably wouldn't be paying us to do it while you spend several blissful hours pretending your dog doesn't follow you into the bathroom.

What we do need is for you to tell us what you know about your dog, what you want, what you're worried about and what has happened before. Then we take all of that information, add what we know about grooming, our own personal skillset, experience and preferences, and the dog standing in front of us, and figure out the best and safest way to proceed.

In other words, you don't need to become a groomer before your grooming appointment. We already have one of those.

The Consultation Is Actually Important

The grooming consultation isn't simply where you place your haircut order and we send it to the kitchen. It's where we figure out what you want, what your dog needs, how things work in reality and whether those things are currently on speaking terms.

Tell us what you want your dog to look like. Short, medium, long, fluffy, short but not showing skin, one length all over, longer legs, shorter ears, beard left long enough to maintain his distinguished gentleman status. All of those descriptions are useful. Tell us what you loved about the last haircut and what drove you crazy. Tell us that the ears spend more time in the water bowl than they do on the dog.

Plain English is perfectly fine. Actually, it's often MUCH better.

You don't need to memorize blade numbers or guard comb lengths before you come in. If you're trying to describe length, telling us approximately how much coat you'd like left is usually more helpful than telling us how much to take off. "Take an inch off" depends entirely on how much hair is there to begin with. "I'd like about half an inch left" gives us a much clearer idea of the dog you're hoping to pick up and whether it's realistic.

Pictures are helpful too, IF they are of YOUR pup or one similar enough in coat type and anatomy to accomplish the goal. They show us what catches your eye. Maybe it's the round face, the fluffy legs, the short body or the ears. What they don't do is temporarily transform your dog into the dog in the picture. Behavior, tools, time, coat texture, density, structure, condition, skeleton and the amount of hair currently attached to your dog still get a vote.

Bring the picture. We aren't going to laugh at you. We may have to explain which parts will work on your dog and which parts require borrowing somebody else's dog, but now we know what you like.

That's what a consultation is for.

Tell Us the Problem. Let Us Figure Out the Solution.

This is one of those things owners do with the absolute best intentions and groomers see all the time.

Something happened during a previous groom. Maybe your dog came home irritated. Maybe there was a scrape. Maybe his skin was red. Maybe he seemed sore somewhere. Naturally, you don't want it to happen again.

Please tell us.

Seriously. We want to know.

Where things sometimes go sideways is what happens between that groom and the next appointment. You think about it. You Google it. You ask Bing. You read Reddit. You ask Facebook. Your neighbor's cousin has a doodle and apparently has thoughts.

By the time you get to the next groomer, "This happened last time" has somehow become a very specific set of instructions about which tools we are allowed to use and exactly how we're supposed to use them.

We get it. You're trying to protect your dog.

But you can skip the part where you have to solve the grooming problem yourself.

Tell us what happened and ask us what we think. That's not giving up control of your dog's care. That's consulting the person you brought your dog to because they know how to groom dogs.

You know things about your dog that we absolutely need to know. We know things about grooming that you shouldn't have to know. Put those two things together and we can usually come up with a much better plan than either of us could with half the information.

Every Groom Is Its Own Experience

There is no universal set of instructions that works for every dog, every haircut and every appointment. Even the same dog doesn't necessarily need exactly the same approach every time.

Every groom is its own experience with its own needs.

Coats change. Skin changes. Dogs age. Hair grows differently. Behavior changes. Health changes. A dog who stood like a tiny professional show dog six months ago may arrive today having decided that feet are private property and we will be hearing from his attorney.

We work with the dog who showed up today.

That's a much bigger part of professional grooming than simply knowing how to operate clippers and scissors. Our training and experience teach us how to look at the individual dog, the coat, skin, anatomy, behavior, condition and desired haircut and decide how to safely get from Point A to Point B.

Sometimes the answer changes.

A technique that works beautifully for one dog may be completely inappropriate for another. Something that worked for your dog last year may not be the best choice now. There may be three perfectly legitimate ways to accomplish the same basic result, and the groomer needs to decide which one makes sense for the animal currently standing on the table.

That decision-making is a lot of the skill you're paying for.

We aren't trained to blindly perform a collection of menu items. We're trained to groom the individual dog in front of us.

One or Two Times Does Not Mean Every Time

This is another really common leap, and it makes sense when you think about it from the owner's side.

Something happened once. Maybe twice. You don't want a third time, so you identify what seems to be the common denominator and eliminate it.

Except sometimes the thing you've identified isn't actually the cause.

If your dog was irritated after a sanitary trim once or twice with another groomer, that is important information. It does not automatically mean your dog gets irritated every time a sanitary is clipped. It doesn't mean clippers themselves are the problem. It doesn't mean every groomer is going to produce the same result.

It means your dog was irritated after those particular grooms.

Tell us exactly that. If it's a few times out of 20, the method was PROBABLY not the cause of the irritation. Just a mention is needed, not an instruction on how you think we should prevent it.

There are a ridiculous number of variables involved. Different groomer. Different equipment. Different technique. Different products. Different pressure. Different length. Different preparation. Different dog handling. Possibly a different condition of the skin. Definitely a different day in the life of a dog who has never once checked our appointment notes before deciding how he plans to behave.

One or two experiences with someone else shouldn't automatically become a permanent grooming rule.

"My dog was irritated after his sanitary the last two times" gives us information we can use.

"You can't use clippers on his sanitary because clippers burn him" gives us the conclusion you reached from that information.

Give us the first one. We'll help you with the second because the second is likely the incorrect and least safe option.

About That "Just Scissor the Sanitary" Instruction...

This one comes up often enough that groomers everywhere just nodded.

A dog has been irritated, scraped or clipper burned during a sanitary trim, sometimes once and sometimes a couple of times, and the next groomer is told, "Don't use clippers. Just scissor it."

It sounds logical. Clippers caused a problem, so don't use clippers.

Except we don't actually know that the fact that clippers were used was the problem, and scissoring the sanitary is most definitely NOT safer than properly clipping it.

Sanitary areas have thin, loose, delicate skin surrounding some fairly important anatomy. Scissors have exposed cutting edges. Dogs move.

I feel like we can all look at those three facts together and see where this is going.

That doesn't mean we don't care that your dog was irritated before. We absolutely care. That's why we need you to tell us. Maybe your dog's skin is particularly sensitive. Maybe the area was clipped too closely. Maybe the groomer just had their equipment sharpened. Maybe their equipment needed to be sharpened. Maybe they need a new blade drive. Maybe they were dealing with carpal tunnel, a fever, or elbow or shoulder pain while attempting to groom that day. Maybe a dog just broke their other 10 blade when it got kicked to the floor. Maybe they were overwhelmed with the pressure and the blade got too hot. Maybe they just tried a little too hard to get it right. Maybe the dog thought they were trying to neuter them again. Maybe the technique needs to change. Maybe the dog's anatomy requires a different approach. Maybe there is another factor entirely.

That's exactly the kind of decision a groomer is trained to make.

The solution to one groomer having a problem once or twice isn't to instruct every groomer afterward to use a less safe method. The solution is to tell the next groomer what happened and let that groomer decide how to avoid it AS IT COMES UP.

"He was irritated after his sanitary the last two times. What do you recommend?"

Perfect.

Now we're having a consultation.

Google Has Never Groomed Your Dog

I am absolutely not going to tell you not to research things about your dog. You should. There is a lot of useful information out there, and being interested enough to learn about your dog's care is generally a good thing.

There is also some spectacular nonsense out there.

More importantly, even perfectly accurate information may not apply to the dog standing in front of us today.

Google can't feel your dog's coat. Bing can't find the mat hidden behind his ear. Reddit can't see his skin. Facebook doesn't know that he becomes a boneless noodle the instant anyone picks up his front foot.

The person grooming him can.

So if you read something that concerns you, ask us about it. If somebody told you something about grooming that sounds important, bring it up. If you want to know why we're recommending something different from what you read, ask.

A good consultation isn't you silently accepting whatever the groomer says, and it isn't you arriving with a grooming procedure you assembled from six search results and a Reddit thread.

It's a conversation.

You tell us what you know about your dog. We tell you what we know about grooming. We look at the actual dog involved and make a plan from there.

You don't need to study for your grooming appointment.

You Know Your Dog. We Know Grooming.

You know what happens during the six or eight weeks when we don't have your dog. You know whether he swims every weekend, lives in sweaters, hates having his back feet touched, scratches after baths, rolls in everything he can find or has recently developed a strange little bump behind his shoulder.

You know whether something happened after the last groom that we couldn't possibly know about unless you tell us.

We need that information.

Your groomer knows coat, skin, grooming equipment, handling, preparation, techniques, haircut construction and the thousand tiny decisions that happen DURING a groom that nobody really notices unless something goes wrong. You need that information too. That's why this works best when neither person tries to do both jobs.

Tell us what you want. Tell us what happened. Tell us what worries you. Ask questions. Bring up what you read online if you want to discuss it.

Then let us look at your dog and do what we're trained to do, and allow for the fact that the plan MAY have to change as the groom is happening because your pup has a say too. You don't have to walk into the salon already knowing the solution.

Honestly, that's one less thing you have to Google.

Please Be Honest About What Happens at Home

At some point during a consultation, especially if you want to keep your dog longer, your groomer is probably going to ask about brushing.

This is not a test.

There is no correct answer we're waiting for, and you don't get extra credit for saying "every day." We need to know what actually happens at home because the amount of maintenance you're realistically willing and able to do has a lot to do with what haircut is going to work for you and, more importantly, your fur kid.

If you brush every day, fantastic. If you brush twice a week, tell us. If you own a brush and occasionally look at it with good intentions, we can work with that information too. If you THINK you brush (this is actually the most common), we can work with that too.

Maybe you hate brushing. Maybe your dog hates brushing. Maybe you have kids, work, dinner, laundry and approximately 400 other things you'd rather do at the end of the day than line-brush a doodle. That's okay. You aren't applying for a grooming license.

What doesn't work particularly well is choosing a haircut that requires twenty minutes or more of maintenance every day when both you and your dog have already agreed that neither of you intends to participate.

Tell us the truth and we can help you choose something that fits your actual life.

Also... We Know

This seems like a good time to let you in on a little secret.

We know when you THINK you're brushing and combing properly but aren't. We know when you aren't brushing the ENTIRE dog. We know when you haven't brushed your dog for months or at all since your last groom. We know when you bathe your dog and don't brush or dry properly. We know when your pup wears sweaters or harnesses without them being taken off and the areas brushed out. We know when your metal comb isn't anywhere near the part you actually need to be combing. We know when you haven't taken out and replaced those bows or tie-ups properly, which NEEDS to happen if you ask for them. We know when things change.

And we know that didn't just take a week or two, or a month.

We're not psychic about everything. We'll get to the things we definitely cannot see through hair later. But coat maintenance leaves evidence, and when you've spent years putting your hands through thousands of coats, you learn to recognize it and even the types and patterns of matting.

Surface brushing feels different from a coat that has been brushed all the way through. Friction from a harness or sweater tends to show up in predictable places. A dog who has been bathed and allowed to air dry with tangles in the coat presents differently from a dog whose coat has simply gone too long between brushing sessions. A dog whose back gets brushed every night while the armpits, chest and legs have apparently been placed in witness protection usually makes that pretty obvious too.

This isn't a courtroom. You don't need a defense.

If we ask what happened, we're usually trying to figure out how the coat got into its current condition so we can help keep it from happening again.

There is a surprisingly large difference between "I brush him every day" and "I brush his back every day, but I didn't realize I needed to get underneath him too." The second answer actually gives us something useful to work with.

Nobody is getting grounded.

Brushing the Dog Includes the Entire Dog

This sounds painfully obvious until you start grooming professionally and realize how many beautifully brushed backs are attached to completely forgotten armpits, legs, chests and under ears.

Most people naturally brush the parts that are easiest to reach. The back gets brushed. The sides get brushed. The top of the head gets brushed. Maybe the tail gets a few passes if everyone is feeling ambitious.

Meanwhile, behind the ears, underneath the collar, the chest, armpits, belly, inside of the legs, feet and all the other places where hair rubs against hair quietly begin forming their own little communities. Also, it's those mats that will determine the appropriate and kindest length of your next haircut, not the brushed-out parts. Those are also some of the places most likely to mat because they move and experience friction constantly. Add a harness, sweater or jacket and you have even more friction. Add moisture and things can get interesting surprisingly quickly.

This is why groomers sometimes seem confused when we're told a dog is brushed every day while we're standing there feeling matting underneath the coat. We aren't necessarily accusing you of lying. You probably ARE brushing every day.

You may just be brushing the same 60 percent of the dog every day.

That's fixable.

Ask us to show you what you're missing. We can point out the areas where your particular dog tends to tangle and show you an easier way to reach them. We'd much rather do that now than shave those areas six weeks from now while you stare at us wondering where all the hair went.

The Brush Is Only Half the Story

Depending on the coat you're maintaining, brushing may not be enough. This is where the comb comes in.

A brush can make the surface look beautiful while leaving tangles closer to the skin. The comb is the reality check. If an appropriate grooming comb can move through the coat from the skin outward without getting stuck, you're in pretty good shape. If it stops halfway down the hair, the fact that the top three inches look magnificent isn't going to help us much.

This is one of those things that's much easier to demonstrate than explain. If you're not sure whether you're brushing correctly, bring your brush and comb to the appointment or ask your groomer to show you.

Really.

You are not going to be the first person who didn't know. Dogs do not arrive with coat-maintenance manuals, and somehow a lot of them come with enough hair to require one.

We can show you what tools make sense for your dog's coat, where your trouble areas are and how to check your work without turning your living room into a second grooming salon.

Dog Haircuts Require Home Maintenance Between Grooming Appointments

There is no universal "easy" haircut. Maintenance depends on coat type, texture, density, length, lifestyle and how frequently the dog is professionally groomed. But generally, if you want more hair left on the dog, somebody has to maintain more hair. That somebody is you for most of the time between appointments. It is not up to your groomer to make up all those days of brushing in a few hours, and many CAN'T do so safely and humanely even if you're willing to pay those top-dollar dematting fees that aren't included in your base price.

This isn't punishment for wanting a fluffy dog. We like fluffy dogs too. We make an alarming percentage of our living making dogs fluffy. But there is a practical relationship between how much coat you want, how much maintenance you're willing to do, what your pup and their skin tolerate and how long you want to go between grooming appointments. If you love a long fluffy haircut and enjoy brushing, wonderful. We can make a plan around that. If you love a long fluffy haircut but your dog reacts to the sight of a brush as though you've arrived carrying a chainsaw, we need to talk. If you love a long fluffy haircut, hate brushing and want to come in every three months, we're going to have an even more interesting conversation.

None of those things makes you a bad pet owner. It just means we need to find the haircut that works for the dog, lifestyle, time and human combination we're actually dealing with. A slightly shorter haircut that stays comfortable and looks good between appointments is a much better choice than a gorgeous long haircut that everybody regrets four weeks later when the pup looks like a naked mole rat after the next groom and has had to live with the uncomfortable tangles in between.

Your Dog's Lifestyle Affects Coat and Haircut Maintenance

Home maintenance isn't the only thing affecting the coat between appointments, so tell us what your dog actually does. Does your dog swim? Hike? Camp? Roll in grass? Dig in the yard? Go to daycare? Wrestle another dog for three hours every afternoon? Wear a harness all day? Spend the winter in sweaters? Have an apparently sacred obligation to locate every puddle within a five-mile radius? Those things matter.

A long coat on a dog who spends most of the day lounging around the house is not the same maintenance project as that same coat on a dog who swims every weekend and considers shrubbery a recreational activity. Water, friction, dirt, debris, clothing and activity all affect how quickly coat tangles. Your groomer isn't asking about your lifestyle because we're nosy. We're trying to figure out whether the haircut you want is going to survive your dog's actual life.

Sometimes your priorities are completely reasonable even when they aren't practical. Maybe you know the longer coat is more work but you love it and you're willing to do the work. Great. Maybe your dog sleeps pressed against you every night and therefore must remain fluffy because that is clearly more important than several other considerations. Also fair. We can discuss your options. The important thing is that we're all working with the same and accurate information.

How Often Should Your Dog Go to the Groomer?

How often your dog comes to the groomer matters just as much as what happens at home. A haircut that works beautifully on a dog coming every four weeks may be completely unrealistic for the same dog coming every ten or twelve weeks. There is simply more time for the coat to grow, tangle, collect debris, experience friction and generally make its own decisions. When your groomer recommends a schedule, it isn't necessarily because we're trying to fill the calendar with your dog's name. We have plenty of dogs.

We're recommending it because we've seen what your dog's coat looks like at four weeks, six weeks, eight weeks or twelve weeks, and we're trying to match the schedule to the haircut you want and the amount of maintenance happening between visits. If you want to stretch the time between appointments, that's another thing you can simply tell us. We may recommend going shorter so the haircut lasts better and remains manageable longer. Again, there isn't a morally correct grooming schedule. There is only a schedule that works or doesn't work for the haircut, coat, dog and home involved.

Haircuts Depend on the Coat That Arrives

This one can be disappointing, and groomers genuinely understand why. You had a haircut in mind. Maybe you've been growing the coat for months. Maybe you finally got the ears exactly where you wanted them. Maybe you have a photo saved on your phone and you've been waiting for the dog to have enough hair to do it. Then we put our hands through the coat and find matting.

At that point, what everybody wanted when the appointment was booked may no longer be possible. Groomers cannot create a haircut out of coat that isn't safely available to use. If the hair needed for the style is severely tangled or matted, the condition of the coat has now become part of the haircut decision. This isn't us refusing to do what you asked because we don't like the haircut, we're lazy or it's too much work. We like hair. Hair is kind of the whole business model. But we also have to consider what getting from the coat we have to the haircut you want would require the dog to endure. Sometimes the answer is reasonable brushing and detangling. Sometimes it isn't.

Dematting a Dog Has Limits

A normal grooming appointment can include dealing with reasonable tangles. Dogs are dogs. Hair tangles. Nobody is sounding an alarm because we found a knot behind an ear.

Extensive matting is different. Dematting takes time and even skill that all groomers vary at, but time isn't actually the biggest issue. The bigger issue is the dog underneath the mats. Pulling apart tightly tangled coat pulls on skin. Repeated brushing over the same area can irritate it. Severe matting can already have the skin underneath it under constant tension before we even begin. At some point, preserving the hair stops being worth what we would have to put the dog through to save it.

There is no magical professional-only brush hidden in the back room that makes severe matting gently fall apart while the dog eats snacks and listens to spa music.

We wish.

Sometimes the safest and kindest thing to do is clip underneath the matting, take the coat shorter and start again. That can be disappointing. We know you may not like how short the dog has to be. We probably don't love taking off the coat you spent months growing either. But the dog doesn't care how many months we spent growing the hair. The dog cares about what we're doing to their skin right now.

Why Your Groomer May Need to Shave Your Dog Shorter

This may be one of the biggest misconceptions surrounding matted dogs.

When a groomer says the dog needs to go shorter, we aren't punishing you because you didn't brush enough. We aren't teaching you a lesson. We aren't angry at your dog, and we don't have a secret salon competition to see who can send home the baldest doodle. We're making a grooming decision based on the condition of the coat and the comfort of the dog.

Sometimes owners are embarrassed when their dog is matted. You really don't need to be. Groomers see matting constantly, and there are plenty of reasons it happens. Coat changes, illness, family emergencies, a busy month, an owner who didn't realize their brushing wasn't reaching the skin, a dog who stopped tolerating brushing, sweaters, swimming or simply a haircut that required more maintenance than anyone realized.

Tell us what happened if you know.

Then let's figure out what works better next time.

Maybe that's better brushing technique. Maybe it's a different tool. Maybe it's a shorter haircut. Maybe it's coming in two weeks earlier. Maybe it's accepting that your dog is destined to live a perfectly happy life looking adorable in half an inch of hair instead of three inches. The goal isn't to win at having the longest coat. The goal is a clean, comfortable dog in a haircut that works for the life the two of you actually live.

Groomers Cannot See Moles and Skin Growths Through Hair

There are a lot of things groomers learn to find with their hands. Mats, skin changes, lumps and bumps have a way of introducing themselves eventually when you spend all day bathing, drying, brushing and clipping dogs. Unfortunately, we still haven't developed X-ray vision. Moles, skin tags, warts, cysts and other little growths can be completely hidden underneath a dog's coat. Sometimes the owner doesn't know they're there. Sometimes we don't know they're there. Sometimes nobody knows they're there until the hair covering them is removed. This is especially common with older dogs, who seem to reach a certain age and begin collecting random bumps like souvenirs.

If you know your dog has a mole or growth, please point it out during the consultation. Don't assume we'll automatically find it before we get to it. If it's buried underneath any coat, there may be absolutely nothing visible from the outside telling us it's there. If we know about it, we can try to work around it. If neither of us knows about it, we're both about to meet it at the same time.

Why a Slightly Longer Dog Haircut Can Be Safer

Hidden growths are one of the reasons a groomer may recommend leaving a little more hair than you originally requested. A comb attachment leaves more clearance between our blades and the skin and any moles, warts or growths that may be there. On a dog with known bumps and growths, or a dog whose age and skin make us suspect there may be a few surprises hiding underneath the coat, leaving the haircut slightly longer can give us a better chance of staying above them. Sometimes the difference isn't dramatic. You may ask for a very short haircut and your groomer may recommend going just a little longer with a comb instead. We're not trying to ruin your haircut. We're trying to send the dog home with all of the same pieces they arrived with. If you happen to nay-say this suggestion, please don't expect your groomer to miss moles with that 7 or 10 blade because it just is less likely, and they offered.

You are still allowed to prefer the shorter haircut. We can explain what we're concerned about and recommend the safer option, but ultimately there are grooming decisions where an informed owner may decide they still want something different. What isn't reasonable is declining the safer recommendation and then expecting the groomer to somehow eliminate the additional risk that came with that decision. If I tell you I would prefer to stay slightly longer because your dog has bumps hidden throughout the coat and you still want the shorter haircut, I will be as careful as I can possibly be. But careful still does not mean psychic or that I will be able to groom in some magical way to avoid moles and growths.

WE CAN'T SEE MOLES

This one really shouldn't require much explanation, but apparently it does: WE CAN'T SEE MOLES.

Not through hair.

When we're clipping a dog, the clipper is removing the coat that is preventing us from seeing the skin underneath it. We don't get to look at the bare skin first, locate every mole, skin tag, wart or little growth, mark them all on a map and then put the hair back before we start grooming. We see that section of skin after the hair covering it has been removed. If there's a mole hiding underneath that hair, the clipper may encounter it before we ever have the opportunity to know it's there.

That's not carelessness. That's how clipping a dog works.

Even if you know your dog has moles, and even if you tell us your dog has moles, we still can't see them through the coat. Please tell us anyway because knowing about your dog's skin is useful information, especially if there is a large or unusual growth we should know about. But "my dog has several moles" does not suddenly make those moles visible underneath an overgrown coat.

And no, it isn't realistic to expect a groomer to remember the precise location of every mole from the last haircut either. Dogs move. Skin moves. Skin stretches. Hair grows over everything again. A tiny bump that was obvious on a freshly clipped dog six or eight weeks ago may be completely hidden when that dog comes back covered in hair.

This is why a groomer cannot reasonably be held responsible for avoiding moles during a haircut. Avoiding something requires being able to see where it is before you encounter it. In many cases, we can't. The tool removing the hair is also the tool exposing the skin underneath that hair. Sometimes the first moment we can possibly see a mole is the same moment we've already reached it.

If your dog has a lot of moles or skin growths, your groomer may recommend leaving the coat slightly longer and using a comb attachment. That gives us more clearance from the skin and therefore more clearance from whatever may be hiding on the skin underneath all that hair. It reduces the risk. It allows room between the skin and a blade that using just a blade does not, but it does not give us X-ray vision.

You can absolutely decide that you still want the shorter haircut. It's your dog and we're discussing your options with you. But if your groomer recommends the slightly longer comb cut because your dog has a lot of hidden skin growths and you decline it, you are also choosing the increased risk that comes with working closer to the skin. You can't choose the shorter length and simultaneously expect the groomer to guarantee that equipment working closer to the skin will never encounter something invisible on that skin.

We can be careful.

We cannot be psychic.

Why a Bleeding Mole Doesn't Automatically Mean the Groomer Cut Your Dog

Moles, skin tags and other growths can bleed surprisingly easily, and clippers are not the only thing that can make that happen. A fragile growth can open during brushing or even drying. It can open during bathing. It can bleed from scratching, rubbing or ordinary handling. High-velocity dryer air can move the skin enough to disturb a fragile growth. Sometimes one starts bleeding while the dog happens to be at the grooming salon and nobody actually did anything to it at all.

So if a groomer notices blood coming from a mole during the grooming process, that does not automatically mean, "The groomer cut my dog." All too often, we didn't even know there was a mole there until it started bleeding.

This is another place where timing gets mistaken for cause. The fact that something became visible during grooming does not mean grooming created it, and the fact that something bled during grooming does not prove grooming equipment cut it. We are bathing, drying, brushing, handling and removing hair from the entire dog. Things that have been hiding underneath that coat tend to reveal themselves during that process.

Groomers Often Find Lumps, Bumps and Skin Changes Owners Can't See

Groomers find lumps, bumps, moles, skin tags, scabs and other skin changes owners didn't know about all the time. That doesn't mean you aren't paying attention to your dog. Most people do not regularly part the coat over every square inch of their dog's body and inspect the skin underneath it.

We pretty much do.

Our hands are all over the dog during the bath. We separate the coat while drying. We brush and comb down toward the skin. Then, on dogs receiving haircuts, we remove the coat that may have been hiding the skin entirely. Suddenly there's a bump sitting there that nobody has ever seen before.

"Has this always been here?"

"I HAVE NO IDEA. WHAT IS THAT?"

Well, good news. Now there are two of us who would like to know.

If we find a new or concerning lump or skin change, we'll try to remember to tell you so you can have your veterinarian determine what it is if necessary. What we shouldn't do is confuse discovering something during grooming with causing it during grooming.

Your dog's skin existed before we took the hair off.

We just couldn't see it either.

Quicking a Dog's Nail Does Not Mean It Was Trimmed Incorrectly

Let's get one thing out of the way. Quicking a nail does not mean the nail was trimmed incorrectly . It doesn't mean the groomer was negligent, and it does not mean your dog has been traumatized. Do we want to quick nails? Of course not. We also don't want the dog to poop during the blow dry, knock the shampoo bottle into the tub or sneeze directly into our mouths, but grooming involves living animals and occasionally things happen that were not on anybody's vision board for the day.

Part of the misunderstanding comes from the idea that the quick is the line that determines whether a nail was correctly trimmed. It isn't. The goal of trimming a nail is to properly shorten and shape the nail. As I've explained in my full nail-care article, the proper trim is based on the structure and curve of the nail, not on a rule that says "stop before the quick and wherever you land is now the correct nail length."

Quicks vary. They can be long, short, easy to see in a light nail and completely hidden inside a black one. They don't necessarily sit at exactly the same place in every nail on the same dog, and a dog can have long quicks inside nails that still need to be shortened. And dogs move. That's all important because otherwise we end up with the idea that touching the quick automatically proves the nail was cut too short. It doesn't. A properly trimmed nail can occasionally be quicked.

Every groomer, bather, veterinary technician, veterinarian or other professional who trims enough nails is eventually going to quick them. When you're trimming thousands and thousands of individual nails, occasionally meeting the quick is part of working with actual dog nails instead of diagrams of them. We try not to. Sometimes we do.

A Quicked Nail Is Not a Grooming Emergency

The quick contains blood vessels and nerves, so yes, nicking it can sting a little and it can bleed. Many dogs barely react, and some don't react at all. Others react because a leaf moved outside three counties away and they were already emotionally prepared for drama before we touched the foot. We stop the bleeding and move on.

That moment is not automatically traumatic. There is an enormous difference between a dog experiencing a brief unpleasant sensation and a dog being psychologically traumatized, and we need to stop using those words as though they're interchangeable. In fact, if every human in the room turns a tiny quick into a five-alarm emergency, we may do a much better job teaching the dog that nail trims are terrifying than the quick ever did. Dogs pay attention to our reactions too. Calmly handle the problem and continue with life.

Blood After a Nail Trim Doesn't Necessarily Mean the Groomer Quicked the Nail

A nail can be trimmed very close to the quick without actually exposing it, leaving only a very thin layer of nail over the end. Then the dog leaves the salon, walks across concrete, scratches the ground, runs around the yard, drags a foot or launches himself toward Mom at approximately 700 miles per hour because apparently he has been abandoned at the grooming salon for seventeen years instead of three hours. That tiny remaining layer can wear away and expose the quick later. Now there is blood, but that does not mean the groomer cut into the quick during the nail trim.

Again, timing and cause are not always the same thing. If you'd like the much longer explanation of nail structure, nail clippers, Dremels, long quicks, bleeding and what actually helps dogs who are afraid of nail trims, I already wrote an entire article about it because apparently I have VERY strong feelings about toenails. For our purposes here, the important point is much simpler. A quicked nail is not proof of a bad nail trim, a tiny amount of blood is not proof of negligence, and your dog having an unpleasant two seconds does not automatically mean your dog has been traumatized. Sometimes a nail is just a nail. And a small note because it's very important: It is not being quicked that causes trauma. It is the fight and the forcing to get it done occurring at the time the pup was quicked.

Your Dog Gets a Vote Too

There are three participants in every grooming appointment: you, your groomer and your dog. Two of us can have a wonderful plan at check-in. The third has not been consulted and may have very strong opinions about it.

Dogs are living, moving, thinking animals. They get tired. They get scared. They get impatient. They have sore spots. They have things they tolerate beautifully and things they have decided are absolutely unacceptable. Some will stand quietly while we scissor every hair on their face and then react to having one front foot touched as though we've violated an international treaty. Others will happily hand us their feet but believe the dryer is trying to kill them. Every dog is different, and every groom has to account for the dog actually participating in it.

This is why the finished groom isn't determined entirely by what you requested at drop-off. We can discuss the haircut, agree on the length and make a plan, but the dog still has to safely allow us to do it. Sometimes that means modifying part of the haircut. Sometimes it means leaving something imperfect. Sometimes it means stopping something entirely. A perfectly symmetrical face isn't worth fighting a frightened dog with scissors beside an eyeball to get it.

Most groomers would much rather hand you a slightly imperfect dog and explain what happened than push a dog past what was safe just so nobody has to admit one ear is a little wonky today. Hair grows. Eyeballs are considerably less convenient to replace.

Tell Your Groomer About Your Dog's Behavior

If your dog has bitten a groomer, tried to bite a groomer, panics for nails, cannot tolerate the dryer, screams when a particular leg is touched, has suddenly become sensitive somewhere or has any other handling issue, please tell us.

This isn't a confession.

We aren't sitting behind the counter deciding which dogs have been naughty enough to lose grooming privileges. Behavior is information, and information lets us prepare. If I know your dog is likely to bite when I touch a front foot, I can approach that foot differently. If I know the dryer terrifies him, I can plan around that before I turn it on. If an older dog has suddenly started fighting when his hips are shifted due to picking up a foot, that is information I want before I start moving those hips around.

What isn't helpful is finding out the hard way.

Sometimes owners are afraid that telling us about a bite or difficult behavior means we won't groom the dog. Depending on the severity of the behavior and the individual salon, occasionally it may. But hiding the information doesn't make the behavior disappear. It only removes our ability to prepare for it.

Please don't tell us afterward, "Oh yeah, he did that to the last groomer too."

That would have been excellent information approximately one dog bite ago.

"He Never Does That at Home"

We believe you.

Really.

Your dog probably doesn't stand on a grooming table at home while somebody holds his chin and runs clippers around his feet. You probably aren't using a high-velocity dryer in your kitchen. Most people don't spend Saturday afternoon lifting their dog's tail while trimming hair around his butt with professional grooming equipment.

Home and the grooming salon are completely different environments with completely different expectations.

A dog can be an absolute angel at home and difficult for grooming. A dog can also be a lunatic at home and stand beautifully for the groomer. Neither one means anybody is lying. Dogs respond differently to different people, environments and situations.

They also learn routines. A dog who has been professionally groomed regularly may understand exactly what happens on a grooming table even though he won't let his owner brush one leg at home. Conversely, a dog who happily lets you play with his feet on the couch may have very different feelings when nail clippers appear.

So when we tell you your dog struggled with something, we're not criticizing your dog, we're not accusing you of not knowing him, we're not beating them up, we didn't do anything to cause negativity and it certainly doesn't mean we're bad people.

We're telling you what happened while he was with us.

Your Dog's Grooming Behavior Can Change

The dog we've groomed for five years isn't necessarily going to behave exactly the same way forever.

Puppies grow up. Adults age. Bodies become less flexible. Arthritis and other physical changes can make positions that were once comfortable harder to tolerate. Vision and hearing can change. Skin can become more sensitive. Dogs can develop new fears or simply become less patient about things they tolerated when they were younger.

Sometimes the change is temporary. Maybe your dog doesn't feel quite right today. Maybe he's unusually tired. Maybe something happened before the appointment that we don't know about. Sometimes we never find out why today was different.

We still have to groom today's dog.

If your groomer tells you that something was harder this appointment than it has been before, that isn't necessarily an excuse for an imperfect groom. It's useful information about your dog. If it happens again, now we have a pattern. If it doesn't, maybe he was simply having a bad day.

Dogs are allowed to have those too.

Sometimes "Perfect" Isn't the Safest Grooming Goal

Professional groomers care what their work looks like. We notice details most owners will never see. We see the sticky-out hair on the left cheek. We know one foot isn't quite as round as the other. We know exactly which part of that ear we would love another thirty seconds to fix.

Sometimes the dog says we're done.

There is a point where continuing to chase perfection stops improving the groom and starts unnecessarily testing the dog. A tired senior who has already given us everything he had today doesn't need another ten minutes standing because I can see three hairs on his rear leg that are offending me personally.

A puppy who has successfully tolerated his first face trim does not need to leave with a competition-perfect head. He needs to leave having learned that grooming was something he could handle so we can build on that next time.

A frightened dog who finally lets us safely trim around his eyes doesn't need us to immediately push our luck because we'd really like the muzzle a little rounder.

Good grooming isn't just knowing how to make something perfect.

It's knowing when perfect isn't the most important thing in front of you.

Why Your Dog's Haircut May Be Different From the Last Groom

Owners understandably use previous grooms as a reference. "You did it last time" sounds like pretty convincing evidence that something should be possible again.

Sometimes it is.

Sometimes the circumstances aren't the same.

Maybe the coat was in better condition last time. Maybe the dog came four weeks sooner. Maybe he tolerated his legs better. Maybe there wasn't matting behind the ears. Maybe his skin wasn't irritated. Maybe he's six months older and standing for that long is harder now. Maybe the haircut itself has grown into something different.

This comes back to something I said earlier: every groom is its own experience with its own needs.

We don't ignore what worked before. Grooming history is incredibly useful. But "we did it last time" cannot override what we're looking at today.

The dog in front of us today always wins that argument.

Ask Your Groomer How to Make the Next Groom Easier

One of the strangest things about grooming is how often people apologize before asking us to show them something.

Don't.

If you don't know how to brush a particular area, ask. If you don't know which brush to buy, ask. If you aren't sure whether you're getting all the way through the coat, ask us to show you. If your dog keeps matting in the same place, ask why. If you're struggling with nails at home, tell us what's happening.

We already spend an unreasonable percentage of our lives discussing dog hair. You are not burdening us by asking a dog-hair question.

Most groomers would much rather spend five minutes showing you how to maintain the coat than spend forty-five minutes trying to save it six weeks later.

And if you genuinely don't want to brush?

Tell us that too.

There is no prize for owning the longest haired dog in the neighborhood. We can help you choose something shorter and easier to maintain that's still adorable. A comfortable dog in a cute, practical haircut is considerably better than everybody being miserable because somebody decided one inch of coat was a moral obligation.

You and Your Groomer Are on the Same Team

Most of what groomers wish owners knew really comes down to this: we're trying to work with you, not against you.

Tell us what you want. Tell us what happened before. Tell us what you do at home, including what you DON'T do at home. Tell us about behavior, skin changes, health changes and things you're worried about. Ask questions when you don't understand why we're recommending something.

Then let us bring our part to the conversation too.

We spend years learning this job and then continue learning from every dog we groom. We know what different coats can and cannot do, what different tools do, what various techniques require and when the plan needs to change because the dog, coat or circumstances changed.

You know your dog.

We know grooming.

Your dog knows exactly how much nonsense he intends to tolerate from either one of us today.

Between the three of us, we can usually work something out.

Until Next Time...

Groomers don't expect perfect dogs or perfect owners. If we did, most of us would have been forced into another career years ago.

We need information, realistic expectations and enough trust to make professional decisions about the dog standing in front of us while we work our magic. Sometimes we'll tell you something you didn't know. Sometimes you'll tell us something we couldn't possibly know. Sometimes your dog will immediately invalidate the entire conversation by doing something neither of us has ever seen him do before.

That's grooming.

It's messy, unpredictable, occasionally ridiculous and performed on animals who have never once read the notes from their previous appointment.

And somehow, we still love it.

Wanna Book with Kari or any of her amazing coworkers in North Las vegas? Click Here for more info.

Groomer Confession #2: I have absolutely woken up in the morning, wiped the crusties from my eyes and known whose hair it was I was weirdly pulling out from inside and behind my eyeballs.

Dog and Cat Nail Care: Nail Clippers, Dremels, Long Quicks and Bleeding Explained

Sun, 26 Jul 2026 21:39:21 GMT

Dog and Cat Nail Care: What Pet Owners Actually Need to Know

Nail trimming is probably one of the least popular parts of pet care. Dogs don't often like it. Owners are nervous about doing it. Cats frequently have their own opinions about the entire situation too. And those opinions can be... persuasive, often involving teeth from both canines and felines. Unfortunately, nails don't care.

They keep growing whether anyone wants to deal with them or not, and nail care is about much more than keeping your floors or arms from getting scratched or stopping your dog from clicking through the house like they're wearing tap shoes.

Keeping nails at a healthy length is an important part of maintaining healthy feet, bones and joints and comfortable movement and normal weight distribution. When nails are allowed to become severely overgrown, they can eventually create problems that go far beyond the nail itself.

There can be an enormous amount of unnecessary fear and drama surrounding nail trimming. Some caution is good. There is a blood vessel and nerve inside the nail called the quick, and yes, we want to avoid cutting it.

But nail trimming doesn't need to become a terrifying medical procedure either.

Understanding what you're looking at, knowing where you're trying to cut and knowing what to do if something goes wrong makes the whole thing considerably less intimidating. You also are less likely to mistakenly think your groomer has traumatized your pup or done something wrong by accidentally catching a quick or two in the event a quick has occurred if you understand a little more about the process.

Why Long Nails Are More Than a Cosmetic Problem

A dog's nails aren't supposed to continually grow until they resemble little hooks.

When nails become too long, they can interfere with how the foot naturally contacts the ground. Instead of the paw sitting normally, long nails can push the toes backward or change how the dog distributes weight through the foot.

That change doesn't necessarily stop at the toes.

Feet affect legs. Legs affect joints. Joints affect movement. Back pain and damage can ensue.

A dog compensating for uncomfortable feet can change the way they stand and walk, which can place unnecessary stress on the toes, feet, wrists, elbows, knees, hips and other parts of the musculoskeletal system.

This becomes especially important with senior dogs and dogs that already have orthopedic problems. If getting up and moving around is difficult enough already, excessively long nails certainly aren't helping.

And then there are the REALLY long nails. Occasionally nails will grow into the paw pad or surrounding skin. This can happen more often and quickly with some dogs than others due to the natural shape of the feet and paw pads and the nails growing at a closer curve.

At that point, we're no longer talking about needing a manicure. We have an injury.

Dewclaws are particularly easy to miss because they don't normally contact the ground. There is nothing naturally wearing them down as the dog walks. They can continue growing into a circle until they eventually grow directly into the skin or pad.

This is one reason every nail needs to be checked, including those little dewclaws hiding farther up the leg.

Cats can have the same problem.

Older cats in particular may not shed the outer layers of their claws as efficiently, and claws can become thick and overgrown. A severely overgrown claw can curl around and grow directly into the paw pad.

If you have a senior cat, checking those feet regularly is important even if your cat has scratching posts available.

So Where Exactly Are You Supposed to Cut a Dog's Nail?

Here's the simple answer I give people:

At the curve. At an angle.

Did you notice how ‘to the quick’ is not a part of that answer? I’ve never taken a test with a question about clipping nails where ‘to the quick’ was the answer. The quick is actually a variable in every nail trim but not actually the deciding factor or always the same length within nails. Look at a normal dog nail from the side. The nail comes out from the toe and then begins curving downward.

That curve gives you a practical visual landmark.

You are generally removing the excess nail extending beyond that natural curve, not attempting to chop the nail all the way back toward the toe.

This is especially helpful for owners who have absolutely no idea what they're looking at and are terrified they're going to amputate something.

You're trimming a nail. We're not performing surgery.

With clear or light-colored nails, you have an advantage because you can usually see the pink quick inside the nail. Stay safely in front of it.

Black nails can require a little more attention because you can't see through them from the outside. You CAN clip back at smaller amounts IF the pet is tolerable of nail trims and will stand or sit that long. If that very first nail at the curve unexpectedly has you reaching for the Quick Stop, take the hint. Your pup probably has longer quicks than average. Go further forward just a little on the remaining nails instead of repeating the same surprise.

If your pup is tolerating multiple short clips you can watch the center from the underside as it begins changing as you get closer to the quick inside the nail. When you're approaching the quick, stop.

It’s also important to note that quicks occur because they aren’t sitting still or liking this part of the process and moving around a lot while the nails are being trimmed. It happens. Often. Which is why we will also go over some ways to help desensitize pups to nail trims and feet handling at home in this article.

So What Is the Quick?

The quick is the living tissue inside the nail containing blood vessels and nerves.

That's why cutting into it stings for a second and it bleeds.

It's also why we try not to cut it.

But I want to clear up something that has become ridiculously dramatized over the years.

Quicking a dog is not equivalent to cutting off their toe.

Does it hurt a bit?

Yes. And every pup reacts differently. Some scream just cause their foot is being held or BECAUSE their nails are being trimmed before we even do anything without being quicked and many don’t even react in the slightest when they ARE accidentally quicked.

There's a sharp sting, and it can certainly be unpleasant but dogs react briefly if at all and recover just fine before you’ve even made it to the next nail if things are occurring in a more relaxed manner (it’s not the quick they remember and anticipate in most cases, it’s the other things occurring during a nail trim that scares them, i.e. being forced).

Every groomer or bather who has trimmed thousands upon thousands of nails has quicked nails. Veterinarians quick nails. Veterinary technicians quick nails. Owners quick nails. The only way to not ever quick a nail is not ever trim them. But that would be far more painful to our beloved companions if we all just stopped trimming nails.

Dogs move. Nails can be difficult to read. Black nails don't come with little signs inside saying STOP HERE. Dogs aren't exactly known for patiently standing there while we spend fifteen minutes analyzing one black nail much less each one.

Nobody should intentionally quick a nail, but accidentally nicking one is not automatically some catastrophic event that will emotionally scar a dog for the remainder of its natural life.

What causes many serious nail-trimming problems is everything surrounding the experience.

Blood Does Not Always Mean the Groomer Just Quicked the Nail

Here's another nail-trimming misconception worth clearing up.

You see blood, therefore somebody must have cut deeply into the quick.

Not necessarily.

Sometimes a nail can be trimmed extremely close to the quick without actually cutting into it. There may be only a paper-thin layer of nail left covering the end of that living tissue.

The dog gets off the grooming table. Nothing is bleeding.

The dog walks around the salon. Still nothing.

Then they scratch at something, put pressure on that nail, drag it across the floor or launch themselves out the door at approximately 700 miles per hour because MOM IS HERE.

Suddenly there's blood.

That doesn't necessarily mean the nail was actively quicked during the nail trim.

That tiny remaining layer of nail can wear or scrape away afterward and expose the very end of the quick. Feet also take a fair amount of abuse simply because dogs walk on them. Pressure and activity can cause a minor nail injury to begin bleeding again after it initially appeared perfectly fine.

This is also why you can sometimes pick up a perfectly non-bleeding dog from the groomer and discover a little blood later.

Nobody necessarily committed a toenail massacre while you weren't looking.

Why Can Such a Tiny Nail Injury Look Like So Much Blood?

Nails have a blood supply.

That means even a very small injury to the quick can produce an impressive-looking amount of blood, especially once a dog starts walking around and distributing it everywhere.

One drop becomes a paw print.

That paw print becomes six paw prints.

Then the dog steps on your leg, walks across the floor and shakes a foot.

Congratulations. Your house now looks like somebody needs to call CSI, and we're talking about an injury that may amount to a tiny scrape at the end of one toenail.

There are also reasons one dog may bleed more readily than another.

Stress and excitement can temporarily raise a dog's blood pressure. And what might possibly be exciting or stressful to a dog about having someone mess with their feet?

Exactly.

Some dogs also have underlying medical conditions associated with high blood pressure, while other medical problems can interfere with normal clotting and make bleeding from even a relatively minor injury harder to stop.

This doesn't mean excessive or persistent bleeding should simply be dismissed as "just a nail." If a tiny nail injury is bleeding unusually heavily, repeatedly starts bleeding again or won't stop with appropriate styptic powder and sustained pressure, that deserves attention. Unexplained excessive bleeding can sometimes be an indication that something else is going on medically.

But the amount of blood you SEE is not necessarily a reliable measurement of how severe the original nail injury was. Nails can bleed a lot. Much like very minor scrapes on ears and those ‘the dog licked the scissors’ moments where a papercut somehow looks like a body part is missing.

A tiny nick to the very end of the quick generally produces a quick sting at the moment it happens. That's it. The dog isn't continuing to experience the level of agony you might imagine from looking at blood tracked halfway across the kitchen.

Blood is dramatic.

Dogs running around on bleeding feet make it considerably more dramatic.

And toenails are remarkably good at turning a very small incident into what appears to be a major crime scene.

Being Quicked and Being Terrified of Nail Trims Are Not the Same Thing

Many of us have worked with plenty of dogs that were absolutely convinced nail trimming meant certain death. Some had probably been quicked before. So have thousands of dogs that stand or sit perfectly fine for nail trims.

The bigger issue and trauma is often what happens when the dog becomes frightened or uncomfortable and people decide the solution is to overpower them and force the procedure anyway.

Imagine being afraid of something, trying desperately to get away from it and then having several people grab you, pin you down and continue doing the thing you're terrified of while you struggle.

THAT is an excellent way to teach an animal that nail trimming is horrifying.

Once a dog learns that touching their feet means they're about to lose control of their body and be forced through something frightening, you've created a much larger problem than one accidentally quicked nail.

There are obviously situations where a dog's nails desperately need attention and handling them isn't optional. But routinely wrestling a frightened puppy through nail trims is not how I would teach that puppy to tolerate nail care for the next 10 or 15 years.

One thing I do suggest for pups who NEED those nail trims but we’re working on making it a more positive experience? Do those at your vet. Have them be the bad guy and let the groomer clip or dremel a nail or two during each groom or whatever they are tolerating so they don’t associate that forced unpleasantness with the groomers and the grooming establishment. Don’t do a forced nail trim at the vet and a grooming on the same day. This often gives us the BEST shot of eventually working your pup around to cooperating and trusting us for nail trims without the forcing the issue that is ACTUALLY what creates the fear. Not being quicked.

If you're starting with a puppy, you have a huge advantage though these next sections are recommended for ALL dogs who don’t love their feet touched.

Use it please.

Start Playing With Your Dogs Feet

One of the easiest things you can do at home is simply teach your puppy that having their feet handled isn't a big deal. Touch the paws. Hold one for a second. touch individual toes. Gently press on a nail. Rub between the toes. Then let go.

That's it.

Not every interaction with your dogs feet needs to end with nail clippers appearing.

In fact, we specifically WANT dogs to experience people handling their feet when absolutely nothing happens afterward.

You're teaching:

Someone touched my foot.

The world did not end.

Do it casually while you're sitting together. Keep sessions ridiculously short at first. You aren't trying to prove that you can hold onto the paw longer while the dog pulls it away. We're not having a battle of wills with a 8 week old puppy or a 14 year old senior dog over a toenail.

Once paw handling becomes boring, introduce the nail clippers without immediately launching into a complete nail trim.

Let the puppy see them.

Touch a paw while you're holding them.

Touch the clippers gently against a nail without cutting it.

Clip ONE nail if the pet is comfortable.

You don't necessarily have to finish every foot because you've started.

One successful nail is more useful than finishing all of them after the dog has become frightened, frantic and determined to never let another human being touch its feet again. It’s a negative experience when we turn it into one consistently. It’s a no big deal experience when we work to make it no big deal.

Getting Your Dog Used to a Nail Grinder Without Starting With the Nail Grinder

Some dogs do much better with a Dremel or other electric nail grinder than they do with traditional nail clippers. It’s getting the nails to a healthy length when we can that matters, not which tool we use to do it. It’s usually best to let them pick if they have a preference rather than trying to force them through the process and make them hate nail trims.

If an owner tells me their dog absolutely hates nail trims, one of the first things I'll do is simply show them both the nail clippers and the Dremel separately before I ever touch a foot. It's amazing how many dogs immediately tell me which one they don't like and associate with negatively on sight. Sometimes they'll barely react to one tool but become noticeably anxious the moment they see or hear the other.

That tells me a lot.

Whenever it's safe and practical, I'll often start with the tool they're least concerned about. In many cases, it's the one they haven't had unpleasant experiences with in the past. My goal isn't to prove one tool is better than the other. My goal is to get the nails to a healthy length while making the experience as positive as possible in a way that works the best for THEM long term.

Some dogs hear that nail grinder thing turn on and immediately decide they're leaving the country.

The sound is part of it, but vibration is a big part too. A grinder touching the nail creates a strange vibration that travels through the nail and into the toe. If a puppy has never experienced anything remotely like that before, turning on a loud grinder and immediately sticking it against their toenail is a pretty big first introduction. With older dogs this can be especially uncomfortable for old arthritic bones and joints with all that vibration.

And then there’s the smell which is MUCH stronger to them than to us and can induce panic in some pups.

This is where an electric toothbrush can come in handy if your pup is gonna tolerate the dremel in the future or your groomer has informed you that your pup does not like dremels but you REALLY want those suckers dremeled.

An electric toothbrush isn't going to feel exactly like a nail grinder, nor is that the point. What it does give you is a much smaller, less intimidating vibrating object that you can use to introduce the general idea of vibration.

Start by simply turning it on nearby.

If your puppy doesn't care, great.

Then you can touch the handle against the body for a second. Eventually work your way down the legs and toward the feet. When your puppy is comfortable with that, briefly touch the vibrating handle against a toe or nail.

Again, we're not trying to hold the puppy hostage until they surrender.

A second is fine.

Then two seconds.

Then maybe a few more.

Once vibration around the feet has become completely uninteresting, introducing an actual nail grinder is much less of a jump.

You can use the same gradual process with the grinder itself. Turn it on without touching the dog. Let that become boring. Bring it closer. Touch the body of the tool against the foot without grinding anything.

Eventually, briefly touch the grinder to one nail.

And stop.

You do not have to Dremel 18 nails during the first lesson just because the puppy let you do one.

When actually grinding nails, use short contacts rather than holding the grinder continuously against one spot. Friction creates heat, and heat hurts. Also if you are concerned about quacking your pup? Be aware that dremels frequently come into contact with the quicks, it’s not less often than a nail clipper. The difference is that the heat and friction from the grinder usually cauterizes the nail and prevents further bleeding unless it’s much further into the quick so it’s likely to go unnoticed.

Also pay attention to long hair around the feet. Hair wrapped around a rapidly spinning Dremel is an entirely different problem and can be FAR more painful than a quicked nail that nobody needs.

Keeping Nails Smooth After Grooming and Between Trims

You may occasionally notice that your dog's nails aren't quite as smooth as you'd like after a nail trim. Other times, they may have felt perfectly smooth at first, only to develop a tiny rough edge over the next several days.

That's completely normal.

Dogs don't spend their days sitting in bubble wrap. They walk on sidewalks, scratch at the back door, dig in the yard, jump off the couch, wrestle with their toys and generally use their feet exactly the way dogs are supposed to. A tiny rough edge can develop simply through normal daily activity.

Fortunately, this is one of the easiest parts of nail care to maintain at home.

A regular human emery board or nail file is all you need.

Hold your dog's paw the same way you would if you were looking at the nails. Support the toe with one hand and use the emery board with the other. Using light pressure, gently file only the rough edge until it feels smooth. You don't need to bear down or spend several minutes on each nail. A few gentle passes are often all it takes.

Every few strokes, stop and feel the nail with your fingertip. If it no longer catches your skin or snags a blanket, you're finished.

Remember, you're not trying to shorten the nail or perform another nail trim. You're simply smoothing the little rough spot that's bothering you.

If your dog has had enough after one or two nails, that's perfectly fine. Touch up another one later. There's no rule that says every nail has to be clipped or filed in one sitting.

One quick note for cat owners: this works beautifully for most dogs, but cat claws are built differently. Because cats naturally shed the outer layers of their claws, an emery board or dremel often causes those layers to fray and shred instead of smoothing them. For cats, simply trimming the sharp hooked tip is usually the better option.

Keeping an inexpensive emery board with your pet supplies is one of those little things you'll probably use far more often than you expected. And you won’t need to stress out your pet and the folks trying to keep those nails at healthy lengths trying to get everything to your liking in one shot every nail trim.

Cat Nails Need Attention Too

Cat nail trimming is generally pretty simple once you know what you're looking at.

Gently press the toe so the claw extends. On most cats, the claw is translucent enough that you can clearly see the pink quick running through it.

You aren't trying to cut anywhere near that.

You're simply clipping off the sharp curved hook at the end.

Cat claws are usually much easier to read than black dog nails, which is nice because the cat may provide plenty of other challenges to keep things interesting.

Dewclaw-type inner claws and the claws on older cats deserve particular attention.

Cats normally shed the outer layers of their claws as they scratch. You may have found those little hollow-looking claw sheaths around a scratching post and wondered whether your cat somehow lost an entire claw.

They didn't.

That's normal.

As cats age, however, they may become less active, scratch less or have more difficulty maintaining their own claws. The claws can become thicker and continue growing until they curl toward the paw pad.

Some cat nails can grow directly into the pad.

That's painful and can create a wound and infection.

Senior cats should have their feet checked regularly even if nobody has ever needed to trim their nails before.

Why Did They Say My Dog Has Long Quicks?

Here's another thing we see often. Someone finally decides their dog's nails are way too long and wants them cut extremely short in one appointment.

Except we can't necessarily do that.

Remember that the quick is living tissue inside the nail.

As a dog's nails remain long, the quick can extend farther down into the nail. That means there may simply not be enough dead nail available to safely remove everything you would LIKE removed at once. You can't just decide where the nail should end and cut there.

This is where regular trims become important.

If nails and quicks have become excessively long, trimming them approximately every two weeks can gradually help work the nails back as the quicks move back into a more natural and preferred length.

Each time, you're removing the safe excess and getting closer to the quick without intentionally cutting into it. Over time, the quick can gradually recede, allowing the nail to be shortened farther. This is not an overnight process. And how quickly it happens varies from dog to dog.

The goal isn't to chase the quick backward by repeatedly cutting into it. The goal is frequent, conservative nail trimming that keeps removing the excess as the nail and quick adjust.

If you have a dog with extremely long nails, think gradual improvement rather than trying to fix six months of nail growth in six minutes.

One Exception to the Rule

Throughout this article, we've talked about avoiding the quick whenever possible during routine nail trims.

There is one exception that may be worth discussing with your veterinarian.

If your dog is already scheduled to be under general anesthesia for a dental cleaning or another surgical procedure, ask your veterinarian whether intentionally shortening the nails farther than would normally be recommended on an awake dog would be beneficial.

Because your dog is already under anesthesia, they won't experience the brief sting associated with exposing the quick, and there is no struggling or fear associated with the process. For dogs with chronically overgrown nails and excessively long quicks, this can be an excellent opportunity to reset the nails to a much healthier length, allowing them to grow back into a healthier, more manageable position that's much easier to maintain with regular nail trims.

While you're having that conversation, it's also a good opportunity to ask whether removing any pesky dewclaws that may be at risk of being torn off in the future would be beneficial while your dog is already under anesthesia. If your veterinarian feels it's appropriate, addressing both during the same procedure may help prevent problems down the road.

Okay, You Hit the Quick. Now What?

First, this is why we recommend having Quick Stop or another styptic powder available BEFORE you start trimming nails and in general for first aid for torn or bleeding nails. Not after.

Before.

Because naturally, the one time you don't have it will be the time somebody jerks their foot at exactly the wrong second. Styptic powder helps stop bleeding by promoting clotting at the cut surface. Put some directly onto the bleeding nail and apply firm pressure. Don't dab at it or check it every three seconds to see if it's still bleeding.

Pressure needs time to work. Hold it there.

Most accidentally quicked nails look considerably more dramatic than they actually are because even a relatively small amount of blood can quickly get smeared across a paw, your floor, your clothes and possibly every surface your dog can reach while you're trying to catch them.

Once you've stopped the bleeding, keep the dog reasonably quiet for a little while so they don't immediately knock the clot loose running around the house.

What If You Don't Have Quick Stop?

Of course, emergencies rarely happen when you've thoughtfully assembled every supply you could possibly need.

If you accidentally quick a nail and don't have styptic powder, cornstarch or flour can be used temporarily to help control the bleeding. Put some into a small container or your palm, press the nail into it and then apply steady pressure.

The pressure is important.

A clean bar of soap can also be used in a pinch by gently pressing the bleeding nail into the softened soap.

These are emergency substitutes, not reasons to permanently replace styptic powder if you're regularly trimming nails at home.

Quick Stop is inexpensive.

Buy some.

Put it with the nail clippers and/or dremel.

Then you don't have to tear through your kitchen cabinets with a bleeding dog under your arm trying to remember whether I said cornstarch or baking soda.

It was Cornstarch.

When a Bleeding Nail Is More Than Just a Quicked Nail

There is a big difference between accidentally clipping into the quick and having a nail tear, split or partially rip off.

Dogs can catch nails on carpets, blankets, furniture, fencing and plenty of other things.

Dewclaws are especially vulnerable because of where they sit on the leg.

A torn dewclaw can bleed A LOT.

Again, don't panic just because there's blood everywhere. Nails are vascular, and blood gets spread around quickly.

Your first job is controlling the bleeding.

Apply styptic powder if you have it and use firm pressure with clean gauze or another clean absorbent material.

If the nail is partially attached, don't start yanking on it because it looks like it should come off.

That remaining piece may still be attached to living tissue and pulling it can be extremely painful and cause additional damage.

If bleeding won't stop with sustained pressure, the nail has torn significantly, the nail is dangling, the nail bed is exposed, your pet is in substantial pain or you're dealing with a deep injury around the toe, it's time to contact your veterinarian.

Broken nails can sometimes require removal of the damaged portion, pain management and treatment of the exposed nail bed.

The same applies when an overgrown nail has penetrated a paw pad.

Don't simply clip the nail out of the pad and assume the problem is finished.

That nail has created a puncture wound.

The area may need veterinary attention, particularly if there is swelling, discharge, significant pain, odor or any other sign of infection. Your groomer will usually remember to inform you if there was an embedded nail during their grooming or nail trim appointment so you can properly monitor the area.

How Often Should Nails Actually Be Trimmed?

There isn't one perfect schedule for every dog.

Some dogs naturally wear their nails down considerably by walking on hard surfaces. Others barely wear them at all. Dewclaws aren't hitting the ground, so don't assume they're fine because the other nails look good.

For many dogs, checking nails every few weeks is a good habit. If you're trying to gradually shorten excessively long nails and encourage long quicks to recede, approximately every two weeks is a reasonable schedule.

The easiest way to avoid having to fix severely overgrown nails is simply not letting them become severely overgrown in the first place. If your dog sounds like a tiny tap dancer walking across the kitchen floor, take a look at their feet. If the nails are touching the ground it’s probably time for a visit to the groomer.

Nail Care Doesn't Have to Become a Wrestling Match

Nail trimming is necessary.

Turning every nail trim into an event worthy of professional wrestling is not.

Start handling feet, preferably when your dog is young but it’s never too late.

Teach puppies that touching their toes is normal.

Introduce clippers and grinders gradually.

Use an electric toothbrush if vibration is the scary part.

Use an emery board to smooth those ridiculous little razor blades just after and in between trims.

Keep styptic powder nearby.

Learn what the quick looks like.

And remember the easiest visual rule when you're wondering where you're supposed to trim:

Look for the curve.

That's generally the excess nail you're trying to remove.

If your dog already has a serious fear of nail trimming, don't assume the solution is simply holding them harder. Sometimes slowing down and rebuilding their tolerance to having their feet handled will get you much farther than winning another wrestling match.

Because ultimately, nail trimming should be routine maintenance.

Not a traumatic life event for the dog, the owner, the groomer and three innocent bystanders.

Final Thoughts

Hopefully, you've come away with a better understanding of what really goes into trimming nails and why it isn't always as simple as it might appear. Hopefully, you now understand that accidentally quicking a nail is not the end of the world, not a major injury and certainly not automatic proof that someone was careless or negligent. Hopefully, you'll also understand why your dog's nails may not always be quite as short, smooth or perfectly rounded as you were hoping after a single appointment, and why that's sometimes in your dog's best interest.

Most of all, I hope you'll be a little kinder to the person holding the nail clippers. Whether that's your groomer, veterinarian, veterinary technician, bather or even yourself, we're all trying to do what's best for a living, moving animal that doesn't always feel like cooperating or understanding of the fact we're trying to help them. Because one day, the person trimming your pup's nails might just be you.

Whether you're using a mobile groomer , visiting a traditional grooming salon, having your veterinarian handle those toes or tackling nail trims at home, may all your future nail trims be much smoother sailing, your quicks remain untouched and your Quick Stop stay safely in the container where it belongs.

Dog Breed Spotlight - The French Bulldog

Tue, 14 Jul 2026 02:16:17 GMT

Dog Breed Spotlight: The French Bulldog

This is a breed VERY near and dear to this author/groomer's heart.

Meet the French Bulldog

French Bulldogs have exploded in popularity over the last decade or so, and it's easy to understand why. Their oversized bat ears, expressive faces, clownish personalities, and compact size have won over families around the world. They're affectionate, endlessly entertaining, and seem to possess an uncanny ability to become the center of attention wherever they go.

If you're looking for a quiet, eager-to-please companion that hangs on your every command, however, this probably isn't the breed for you. French Bulldogs are intelligent, independent, stubborn, and completely convinced that their ideas are usually better than yours. Fortunately, they make up for it with enough personality to keep you laughing for years.

Breed History

Despite their name, French Bulldogs actually originated in England, not France. Their story began in the mid-1800s after bull-baiting was outlawed in England in 1835, when breeders began developing smaller Toy Bulldogs better suited for companionship than blood sports. During the Industrial Revolution, many Nottingham lace workers relocated to northern France, taking their little Bulldogs with them. There, the dogs were crossed with local ratting dogs and other small breeds, gradually developing the distinctive bat ears, compact build, and affectionate personality we recognize today.

Originally, these little dogs served two purposes. They were treasured companions for the lace workers while also helping keep homes and workshops free of rats and mice. As their popularity spread from working-class neighborhoods to Parisian cafés, artists, and high society, the breed became known as the Bouledogue Français before eventually making its way to America in the 1880s.

That ratting heritage also helps explain a few things about the modern French Bulldog. Although they're no longer expected to hunt vermin, many still retain the boldness, determination, confidence, and terrier-like intelligence and attitude that made them effective little ratters. It's one of the reasons Frenchies often seem to have no idea they're small, why they can be surprisingly stubborn, and why they aren't always the social butterflies some people expect them to be around other dogs.

Personality and Temperament

Life with a French Bulldog is rarely boring.

Frenchies seem to have only two speeds. They're either asleep so soundly you find yourself checking on them, or they're tearing through the house at what feels like two hundred miles an hour because someone picked up a toy, opened the refrigerator, or dared to ring the doorbell. Moderation simply isn't part of their vocabulary. OR they may be busy entertaining that high-powered brain and figuring out everything you hoped they wouldn't if left to their own devices for too long.

French Bulldogs thrive on attention. This is probably THE key insight into understanding the true French Bulldog. It's always all about them. They genuinely enjoy being involved in everything their family does.

Cooking dinner? They're supervising.

Folding laundry? They're helping...whether you asked for help or not.

Trying to use the bathroom alone? Good luck with that.

They also have an incredible sense of humor. Whether they're making ridiculous facial expressions, carrying around a toy twice their size, or proudly showing off something they definitely weren't supposed to have, French Bulldogs have an amazing ability to make people laugh. Which, of course, gets them even more attention.

Living with a French Bulldog

There are a few things French Bulldog breeders don't always mention to first-time owners.

One of them involves the other end of the dog.

Because of their compact build and tightly curled screw tails, many French Bulldogs simply can't clean themselves very well after going to the bathroom. It isn't glamorous, but keeping pet wipes handy and checking beneath the tail regularly can help prevent irritation, infection, and some very unpleasant odors.

Consider yourself warned.

French Bulldogs are also champion snorers. With that flat face, they grunt, snort, snore, sigh, and make enough strange noises to convince visitors there's a small pig living somewhere in the house.

And then they fart.

Despite their stubborn streak, they're incredibly devoted to their families and generally want to be wherever their favorite people happen to be. Don't expect much privacy. French Bulldogs firmly believe every room in the house should include them.

Training and Social Behavior

French Bulldogs are intelligent enough to learn just about anything.

Whether they feel like doing it is another matter entirely.

Training should always be consistent, positive, and patient. They respond much better to praise and making training enjoyable and a game than they ever will to force or harsh corrections. However, it is important to understand that, to most Frenchies, ALL attention is good attention. Even when you're hopping mad, they're STILL the center of attention. Frenchies don't like to do much of anything unless they see something in it for themselves.

With their extremely sensitive stomachs, digestive systems, and tendency toward allergies, they are often on pretty strict diets, so treats should be given in moderation. They also aren't nearly as motivating or behavior-shaping to the average Frenchie as enthusiastic praise and positive attention.

Prospective owners should also understand that French Bulldogs are generally bold, confident little dogs. They are not a breed that should automatically be assumed to enjoy the company of every dog they meet or even get along well with dogs they already know. While training and appropriate, controlled social experiences help teach good manners, they do not change inherited temperament.

French Bulldogs often have far more confidence than their size would suggest and may be unwilling to back down if conflict occurs. Don't assume your French Bulldog needs a dog park to be happy or that, simply because they're small, they'll get along with every dog they encounter. They like to establish themselves as "the big man" at the dog park or daycare and, being pretty selfish by nature, they don't always react kindly to other dogs touching...well...anything, because in their minds, it's theirs.

Many are perfectly content being the only dog in the household or living with established canine housemates under the supervision of the family leader. Introductions to unfamiliar dogs should always be made thoughtfully and under control.

Understanding and respecting the breed's naturally more terrier-like temperament is one of the best ways to help keep everyone safe.

Grooming Requirements

One of the biggest misconceptions about French Bulldogs is that their short coat makes them low maintenance. Nothing could be further from the truth. While they don't require regular haircuts, they absolutely require extensive brushing, routine professional grooming, and a good home maintenance routine to keep the shedding under control.

French Bulldogs shed... A LOT.

If you're looking for a dog that leaves very little hair around the house, a Frenchie probably isn't the breed for you. Regular brushing removes loose hair before it ends up on your furniture, clothing, and floors, while professional de-shedding baths every four to eight weeks can make a tremendous difference in keeping that coat under control.

Good nutrition also plays an important role in maintaining healthy skin and coat. Feeding a high-quality diet and discussing omega fatty acid supplements with your veterinarian can often improve skin and coat quality while helping minimize excessive shedding.

One thing you should never do is shave your French Bulldog to reduce shedding. It simply doesn't work. The hair will continue to shed, and the coat helps protect the skin while providing insulation from both heat and cold.

Because French Bulldogs are so commonly affected by allergies and sensitive skin, ask your groomer to use fragrance-free, hypoallergenic shampoos whenever possible. Skip the perfumes and finishing colognes altogether. A simple de-shedding bath using gentle products is usually the best choice for this sensitive breed.

Those adorable facial wrinkles require regular attention as well. Moisture, food, and debris can collect within the folds, creating the perfect environment for irritation or infection. Keeping the wrinkles clean and dry should become part of every owner's routine.

Don't forget the ears. Those famous bat ears allow excellent air circulation, but they still need to be checked regularly for dirt, excess wax, or signs of infection. Nail trimming is equally important. Long nails affect the way a dog stands and walks and can eventually contribute to discomfort and orthopedic issues.

Professional grooming isn't just about making your French Bulldog look nice and reducing the amount of hair they shed around your house . It's also an opportunity to monitor the skin, ears, nails, coat, and overall condition while catching small problems before they become much larger ones.

Health Considerations

French Bulldogs are wonderful companions, but they are not a breed prospective owners should purchase without understanding their potential health concerns. Many live long, happy lives, but responsible breeding, appropriate health testing, and preventative care are incredibly important in this breed.

Because they are a brachycephalic, or flat-faced, breed, many French Bulldogs are affected by Brachycephalic Obstructive Airway Syndrome (BOAS) . Their shortened skull structure can make breathing more difficult, particularly during exercise, excitement, or hot weather. While some French Bulldogs breathe quite well, others may eventually require medical or surgical intervention to improve their quality of life.

French Bulldogs are also well known for allergies and immune-related disorders. Environmental allergies, food sensitivities, chronic ear infections, itchy skin, inflamed paws, and recurring skin infections are unfortunately common within the breed. Some Frenchies spend years working with their veterinarian to find the right combination of diet, medication, and environmental management to keep them comfortable.

Because of their prominent eyes, French Bulldogs are also more susceptible to painful corneal ulcers and eye injuries than many other breeds. Squinting, excessive tearing, redness, cloudiness, or holding an eye closed should always be treated as a reason to contact your veterinarian promptly.

One of the most misunderstood health concerns in French Bulldogs is the spine. The breed's signature screw tail is actually part of the spine and is itself a form of hemivertebrae, or malformed vertebrae. In fact, hemivertebrae and other vertebral abnormalities are more common than not in the breed. Finding them on X-rays is not automatically a reason to panic, and many French Bulldogs live perfectly normal, active lives with spinal changes that never cause clinical problems.

The important question isn't simply whether vertebral abnormalities exist. It's whether they are severe enough to affect the spinal cord, mobility, comfort, nerve function, or overall quality of life. Unfortunately, some French Bulldogs do develop significant spinal disease at a very young age, resulting in chronic pain, weakness, loss of coordination, paralysis, or even the heartbreaking decision to euthanize a young dog. This is one of the reasons responsible preservation breeders place such importance on spinal health and why prospective owners should never hesitate to ask breeders about the spinal history of their bloodlines, what health testing has been performed, and whether there have been dogs that developed significant back problems early in life.

French Bulldogs are also predisposed to Intervertebral Disc Disease (IVDD) , which can occur suddenly and become a true medical emergency. Any French Bulldog that suddenly cries out in pain, becomes weak, wobbly, drags a foot, loses coordination, or is unable to stand or walk normally should receive immediate veterinary attention.

The breed's natural structure also means hip dysplasia and luxating patellas are not uncommon and are frequently present from birth. Again, the question is not simply whether these conditions exist in this breed, but whether they are severe enough to affect the dog's comfort, mobility, and quality of life.

Heart disease is another condition responsible breeders work diligently to reduce through careful health testing and thoughtful breeding decisions.

Reading this list may sound intimidating, but it doesn't mean every French Bulldog will experience these problems. Many never do. It does, however, reinforce why choosing a responsible preservation breeder is one of the most important decisions you'll make. A breeder who is open about the health of their bloodlines and performs appropriate health testing is giving your future puppy the best possible start in life. Considering the potential cost of treating many of these conditions, pet insurance is also well worth considering while your French Bulldog is still young and healthy.

French Bulldogs and Heat Don't Mix—Sometimes Humidity Too

French Bulldogs and hot weather are a dangerous combination. Their shortened airways make it much harder to cool themselves, allowing them to overheat far more quickly than many other breeds.

Every French Bulldog owner should know the signs of heat stroke before they ever need to recognize them. If your Frenchie begins struggling to breathe, collapses, becomes disoriented, or shows signs of overheating, treat it as a true medical emergency.

Many experienced Bulldog and French Bulldog breeders carry a summer heat emergency kit that includes lemon juice. As an overheated French Bulldog struggles to breathe, thick mucus and foam can rapidly build up in the throat, making an already compromised airway even worse. A small squirt of lemon juice can help cut through that mucus while you're actively cooling your dog and heading immediately to the nearest emergency veterinary hospital.

Lemon juice is first aid, not a cure. Its purpose is to help keep the airway as clear as possible while buying precious time on the way to emergency veterinary treatment.

If you'd like to learn more about preventing, recognizing, and treating heat stroke, be sure to read my complete article dedicated to this life-threatening emergency.

Choosing a Responsible Breeder

One of the biggest decisions you'll make isn't what color French Bulldog you want or whether you prefer a male or female. It's choosing where your puppy comes from.

A responsible preservation breeder should be happy to discuss the health testing performed on their breeding dogs, explain why they selected a particular breeding, and answer your questions honestly. They should also be just as interested in learning about you as you are about them. Responsible breeders care deeply about where their puppies spend the rest of their lives and remain a resource long after you bring your puppy home.

If someone always has puppies available, advertises multiple "rare" colors, refuses to discuss health testing, cannot provide documentation, or seems more interested in collecting a deposit than educating prospective owners, it's worth slowing down and asking more questions.

A well-bred puppy is worth waiting for.

French Bull Dog Club of America Breeder Referral
https://frenchbulldogclub.org/breeders/

Rescue Is Another Wonderful Option

Not every French Bulldog begins life under ideal circumstances. Every year, wonderful Frenchies find themselves needing new homes because of changes in their owner's life, unexpected medical expenses, or other situations that have nothing to do with the dog itself.

Breed-specific rescue organizations work tirelessly to provide veterinary care, evaluate each dog's temperament, and match them with families that understand the unique needs of the breed.

Adopting an adult French Bulldog can be an incredibly rewarding experience and is well worth considering if you're open to giving a deserving dog a second chance.

French Bull Dog Club of America Rescue Organizations
https://frenchbulldogclub.org/rescue/

The "Rare Color" Trend and Fad Breeding Is Hurting the Breed

French Bulldogs have become one of the most popular breeds in the country, and unfortunately, that popularity has come at a price. Social media is flooded with advertisements for "rare," "exotic," and "designer" French Bulldogs in fad colors that responsible preservation breeders simply are not trying to produce.

The French Bull Dog Club of America, the official parent club recognized by the American Kennel Club, has established a breed standard that responsible preservation breeders work hard to protect. Their goal is to preserve the breed by producing healthy, structurally sound French Bulldogs with excellent temperaments. They are not breeding for whatever color happens to be fashionable or brings the highest price.

The color itself isn't what causes health problems.

The real concern is that the tremendous demand for fad colors has fueled an explosion of backyard breeders and puppy mills that often place little emphasis on health testing, pedigree research, sound structure, temperament, or the long-term future of the breed. Responsible preservation breeders work to improve French Bulldogs. Irresponsible breeders often work to satisfy a market.

While not every fad-colored French Bulldog will have serious health problems, and not every standard-colored French Bulldog will be perfectly healthy, careful preservation breeding and comprehensive health testing remain the best tools we have for reducing inherited disease within the breed.

If you're shopping for a French Bulldog, don't start by asking what colors are available.

Start by asking about health testing.

This is more than a vet exam.

Ask about the parents, the grandparents, and the great-grandparents.

Ask about the health and longevity of the breeder's bloodlines. The cute puppy in front of you has more contributions to its future than just "Mom" or "Dad," and it's frequently their parents that have a lot to do with how that cute puppy turns out in the future.

Ask why the breeding was planned.

Ask whether the breeder follows the recommendations of the French Bull Dog Club of America.

Those answers will tell you far more about your future puppy than the color of its coat ever will.

Helpful Resources

French Bull Dog Club of America
https://frenchbulldogclub.org/

FBDCA Resources (Recommended Reading)
https://frenchbulldogclub.org/resources/

French Bull Dog Club of America Breeder Referral
https://frenchbulldogclub.org/breeders/

French Bull Dog Club of America Rescue Organizations
https://frenchbulldogclub.org/french-bulldog-rescue-organizations/

Nevada SPCA
https://nevadaspca.org/

The Animal Foundation (Las Vegas)
https://animalfoundation.com/

Las Vegas Bulldog Club Rescue Information
https://lasvegasbulldogclub.com/rescue/

Final Thoughts

French Bulldogs have earned their popularity for good reason. They're funny, affectionate, intelligent, endlessly entertaining, and full of personality. They also require owners who understand the realities of the breed, from their grooming needs and stubborn nature to the importance of responsible breeding and preventative healthcare.

If you're willing to invest the time to care for them properly and choose your breeder carefully, a French Bulldog can be one of the most rewarding companions you'll ever have.

Just don't expect them to admit you're the one in charge.

Finally Back!

Tue, 07 Jul 2026 02:07:35 GMT

Finally Back!

That took a little longer than I hoped.

If you've been wondering where all the blog posts disappeared to, I promise I didn't fall off the face of the earth. My web host made some changes behind the scenes that suddenly made it impossible for me to publish posts from my phone. Normally that wouldn't be a huge deal, except I don't have access to a computer. Talk about terrible timing!

The good news? We finally got everything sorted out, and I can post again. I have genuinely missed sharing, and I'm excited to get this blog rolling again.

There have also been some pretty big changes while I was away.

After a lot of thought, I've decided to make Leashes Pet Salon on Ann and Simmons my new home base. It wasn't an easy decision because I truly loved my time grooming at The Ark Animal Clinic. I loved my clients, my coworkers, and all of the wonderful dogs I had the privilege of grooming there. But this feels like the right next chapter, and I'm excited for everything that's ahead. If you've been trying to track me down, this is where you'll find me now!

I'll still be grooming the same way I always have, with plenty of patience, lots of laughs, and an unhealthy obsession with making dogs look ridiculously adorable.

And congrats to my friend Shawna on her beautiful new salon Dogz By Shawna on the corner of Cheyenne and Buffalo. I'd wish you well, but you got the goods and do amazing work, so wishes aren't necessary. ;P

Thanks for sticking with me through the unexpected silence. I'm so happy to be back, and I can't wait to fill this blog with whatever else pops into my head. I'm ready and excited to make up for lost time.

Las Vegas Dog-Friendly Events & Activities: Nevada SPCA Neon Dog Walk

Mon, 29 Sep 2025 01:57:39 GMT

Las Vegas Dog-Friendly Events & Activities: Nevada SPCA Neon Dog Walk

Every year, Las Vegas lights up with excitement as pups and their people gather for one of the city's most colorful charity events—the Nevada SPCA Neon Dog Walk .

This family-friendly evening brings together glowing lights, wagging tails, and a wonderful cause: supporting homeless pets throughout Southern Nevada.

Event Details

Date: Saturday, October 18, 2025

Time: 3:00 PM – 7:00 PM

Location: Silverado Ranch Park
9855 Gilespie St.
Las Vegas, NV

Presented By: Nevada SPCA

The walk isn't just about taking a stroll—it's about celebrating our four-legged friends in style. Guests and their dogs are encouraged to dress in bright neon colors, glow sticks, and light-up accessories, transforming the park into a sea of glowing paws and smiling faces.

What to Expect

The evening features a glowing walk through Silverado Ranch Park, live entertainment, music, and plenty of excitement to keep tails wagging.

The Neon Village will host local vendors, businesses, and community partners offering shopping, giveaways, and fun activities throughout the event.

Families can also enjoy:

Games
Photo opportunities
Entertainment
Vendor booths
Community activities
Plenty of opportunities to meet fellow dog lovers

Whether you're attending with your own dog or simply want to support a great cause, it's a fun evening for the entire family.

Supporting Homeless Pets

Every registration helps the Nevada SPCA continue providing shelter, veterinary care, rehabilitation, and loving homes for homeless animals throughout Southern Nevada.

The Neon Dog Walk is much more than a community event—it's an opportunity to directly support thousands of pets who are waiting for their forever families.

Helpful Links

Nevada SPCA Neon Dog Walk
https://nevadaspca.org/event/6th-annual-neon-dog-walk/

Nevada SPCA
https://nevadaspca.org/

Ready to glow for a cause?

Gather your pup, grab your brightest glow gear, and join the Las Vegas community for an unforgettable evening supporting homeless pets. Together, we can light up the night while helping change lives—one wagging tail at a time.

Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew: Episode 1

Mon, 22 Sep 2025 01:19:38 GMT

Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew: Episode 1

Welcome to the first episode of Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew —the series where we pull back the curtain on the fur-covered, scissor-wielding, caffeine-powered world of professional dog grooming.

If you've ever wondered what really happens behind the scenes at your grooming salon, buckle up. These are the things groomers talk about every day but rarely get the chance to explain.

We're a Skilled Trade, Not a Coffee Counter or Fast Food Joint

Dog grooming isn't like ordering a latte. We're not standing behind a register asking if you'd like that haircut "extra foamy."

Grooming is a skilled trade that requires years of hands-on experience, practice, continuing education, and specialized knowledge. Think electricians, plumbers, or welders, except our "materials" bark, wiggle, lick our faces, and occasionally decide today's the perfect day to practice their alligator roll.

We're not simply taking orders.

We're making professional decisions that balance your dog's safety, comfort, health, coat type, behavior, and appearance all at the same time. Those decisions are based on training and experience, not just personal preference.

And unlike many skilled trades, we rarely get paid by the hour.

We Don't Have Normal Working Hours

A groomer's schedule is like dog hair on black pants, it's everywhere.

We may start at the same time every morning, but there's absolutely no guarantee when we'll finish.

Ask a groomer what time they get off work and you'll probably see them mentally calculating every possible disaster the day could still throw at them before answering with something that sounds more like a four-hour window than an actual time.

Lunch?

Maybe.

If the phones stop ringing, nobody's doodle decides to roll in the mud on the way to the appointment, no emergency nail trims walk through the door, and the stars happen to align.

It's not unusual for groomers to work ten to twelve hours while only sitting down for a few minutes all day.

So if you think we're "just clipping a little fur," remember that many of us are running a marathon while wearing clogs and carrying extremely sharp scissors.

Grooming Isn't Just About Looking Cute

Everyone loves a beautiful haircut.

We do too.

But our job isn't simply recreating the picture you found on Pinterest .

Every groom involves balancing appearance with function, comfort, safety, coat condition, maintenance requirements, and your dog's individual lifestyle.

Your groomer isn't trying to ignore your wishes or reinvent your vision.

We're trying to give your dog a haircut that will still look nice after zoomies through the backyard, a wrestling match at daycare, and the next few weeks of normal dog life.

Unlike a human salon, where appearance is usually the primary goal, professional grooming is first and foremost about your dog's health and comfort.

Making them look adorable is the fun part.

No Two Groomers Are the Same

Have you ever wondered why one groomer says, "Absolutely," while another says, "I'm not comfortable doing that?"

It's not personal.

Every groomer has different training, experience, specialties, physical abilities, and professional standards.

One groomer may agree to shave a Husky or Labrador because they simply don't know the long term risks or are the type to do anything a client asks if possible BECAUSE they asked.

Another groomer may politely refuse because they've spent years learning why that isn't in the dog's best interest.

Neither conversation is about being difficult.

It's about professional judgment.

If your groomer tells you they don't perform a certain service or recommends a different approach than someone you've used in the past, please understand that they're making that recommendation based on their own education and experience, not trying to criticize another groomer. They also shouldn't be under judgement for saying no. Find the one that you fit as much as they fit you and everyone's happy!

No Two Dogs Are the Same

Just like no two groomers are alike, no two dogs are carbon copies.

Two dogs may look nearly identical to you, but to a groomer they're completely different projects.

They may have different personalities, different coat textures, different bone structure, different grooming histories, and completely different behavior on the table.

A matted doodle and a perfectly maintained Poodle that both weigh fifty pounds are not the same amount of work.

A stylish pattern trim takes considerably more time than a simple teddy bear cut.

A dog maintained every three to four weeks at one-quarter inch isn't the same as a dog kept at one inch, even if they're on the exact same grooming schedule.

Then add behavior into the equation.

One dog stands like a statue.

The next one spends the entire appointment trying to breakdance.

Those differences matter.

Grooming Takes Much Longer Than Most People Realize

Many people picture grooming as:

A bath.
A quick blow dry.
A fast haircut.

Reality is a little different.

A typical groom often includes:

A thorough bath.
Complete rinsing.
Careful drying.
Brushing and combing.
De-shedding if needed.
Clipping.
Scissoring.
Nail trimming.
Ear cleaning.
Sanitary work.
Paw pad trimming.

And that's before your dog decides they absolutely must lick the scissors, bite the clippers, sit down halfway through a leg, or convince themselves that standing on three feet is the only acceptable life choice.

Meanwhile, the salon doesn't stop.

Dogs arrive.

Dogs go home.

The phone rings.

Clients have questions.

Laundry piles up.

Tools need disinfecting.

Kennels need cleaning.

Someone has an accident.

A walk-in needs a nail trim.

And every now and then, some mysterious noise somewhere in the building requires immediate investigation.

It's not just a haircut.

Some days it feels more like an Olympic event.

Sometimes We Say Yes Because We Want to Help

One thing many clients never see is that groomers often overbook themselves because they genuinely want to help.

Someone's regular appointment falls through.

A dog desperately needs to be groomed before vacation.

Another client has an emergency.

Before long, we've accepted two or three more dogs than we probably should have because we know how hard it can be to find an appointment.

So if your dog's groom takes longer than expected, please remember we haven't been sitting in the back watching television.

We never know exactly how our day is going to unfold.

We're simply doing everything we can to give every dog the time and attention they deserve.

Until Next Time...

That's a wrap for Things Your Groomer Wishes You Knew: Episode 1.

There are plenty more behind-the-scenes stories, misconceptions, and little realities of the grooming world that most pet parents never get to hear.

We'll tackle more of them in the next episode.

Groomer Confession #1

I've brushed more tails this week than I've brushed my own hair. They don't much care what I look like and I'm getting messy at work anyway.

Part 2

Why You Shouldn’t Shave Your Pitbull, Bulldog, French Bulldog, or Other Short Coated Breeds to Stop Shedding

Mon, 15 Sep 2025 01:07:41 GMT

Why You Shouldn't Shave Your Pit Bull, Bulldog, French Bulldog, or Other Short-Coated Breeds to Stop Shedding

If you've ever looked at the tumbleweeds of dog hair rolling across your floor and thought, "Maybe I should just shave my dog," you're certainly not alone.

It's one of the most common questions groomers hear from owners of Pit Bulls, Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Labrador Retrievers, Boxers, Beagles, Pugs, and other short-coated breeds.

It seems logical. Less hair on the dog should mean less hair around the house...right?

Unfortunately, that's not how shedding works.

Why People Think Shaving Will Stop Shedding

When owners see hair everywhere, it's easy to assume the length of the coat is the problem.

If you cut the hair shorter, there should be less of it to clean up.

The reality is that shedding doesn't happen because the hair is too long. Dogs shed because old hairs naturally fall out and are replaced by new ones as part of the normal hair growth cycle.

Whether the hair is one inch long or one-eighth of an inch long, it's still going to shed.

The only difference is the length of the individual hairs you find around your home. And as a shaved dog is still de-shed during the process the heavier shedding for EITHER a haircut or a de-shed service actually resumes at the same time either way requiring a trip to your groomer.

Short Hair Still Sheds

In fact, many short-coated breeds seem to shed even more than long-coated dogs.

Anyone who's owned a Labrador Retriever, Pit Bull, Pug, or French Bulldog knows those short, stiff hairs have an incredible ability to weave themselves into clothing, furniture, blankets, and even car upholstery.

Long-haired dogs often shed too, but much of that loose coat gets trapped in the surrounding hair until it's brushed out.

Short-coated dogs don't have that luxury. Their loose hairs simply fall away, landing wherever your dog happens to be.

That's why shaving a short-coated breed rarely produces the result owners are hoping for.

The dog continues shedding exactly as before—only now the hairs are shorter.

Shaving Doesn't Change the Hair Growth Cycle

A haircut only changes the length of the hair that's already there.

It doesn't affect the hair follicles beneath the skin, and it doesn't stop new hairs from growing or old hairs from falling out.

Think of it like getting your own hair cut.

After visiting the salon, your hair continues growing exactly as it did before. It doesn't stop growing just because it's shorter.

Dogs work the same way.

Shaving changes appearance, not biology.

There Can Be Downsides to Shaving

For many short-coated breeds, shaving provides little benefit while creating a few potential drawbacks.

The coat offers a layer of protection against infection, minor scrapes, sun exposure, and the environment. Removing that protection can leave the skin more vulnerable, especially during hot Las Vegas summers when pavement, sidewalks, and outdoor temperatures can become extreme.

Some dogs may also develop irritation or clipper sensitivity after being shaved unnecessarily. They may be more prone to infections due to irritated or exposed hair follicles.

Unless shaving is medically necessary, has a direct affect on the actual comfort of the pet or recommended for another reason, it usually isn't the best solution for managing normal shedding.

What Actually Helps Reduce Shedding?

If shaving isn't the answer, what is?

The most effective way to reduce shedding is by removing loose hair before it ends up on your furniture, clothing, and floors.

Professional grooming is one of the best ways to accomplish that. A thorough bath, proper high-velocity drying, and de-shedding tools remove a surprising amount of loose coat that's already ready to come out.

Regular brushing at home also makes a big difference. For many short-coated breeds, a rubber curry brush works exceptionally well because it loosens dead hair while gently massaging the skin and helping distribute the coat's natural oils.

Keeping your dog on a consistent grooming schedule throughout the year usually produces far better results than reaching for the clippers.

Things like diet, omegas and environmental allergies or underlying health issues can also contribute to heavier shedding.

Breeds That Shouldn't Be Shaved Just to Reduce Shedding

While every dog is an individual, shaving simply to reduce shedding is generally not recommended in the slightest for many short-coated breeds, including:

Pit Bull
American Staffordshire Terrier
French Bulldog
Bulldog
Boxer
Pug
Boston Terrier
Labrador Retriever
Beagle
Doberman Pinscher
Great Dane
Weimaraner
Vizsla
Chihuahua
Rat Terrier
Jack Russell Terrier
Miniature Pinscher

These breeds naturally have super short flat coats. Since the hair is already close to the body, shaving usually provides little or no benefit for shedding and poor reactions and infections are more common than you would think, Not because the groomer did anything wrong but because that type of coat was shaved when it was never intended to be.

When Is Shaving Appropriate?

There are times when shaving is absolutely the right choice.

A veterinarian may recommend clipping a dog for surgery or medical treatment. Certain skin conditions may also require the coat to be clipped so medication can be applied properly.

Some dogs with severe matting , regardless of breed, may also need portions of the coat clipped or a complete haircut for their comfort or health.

Those situations are very different from shaving a healthy short-coated dog simply because they're shedding.

The Bottom Line

If your Pit Bull, French Bulldog, Bulldog, Boxer, Pug, or other short-coated companion is filling your house with hair, resist the temptation to solve the problem with clippers.

Shaving doesn't stop shedding because it doesn't change the natural hair growth cycle.

Instead, invest in regular professional grooming, brush your dog routinely with the proper tools, and keep them on a consistent grooming schedule. You'll remove far more loose hair than shaving ever could, while keeping your dog's skin and coat healthier in the process.

If shedding is becoming excessive or suddenly increases, it's always worth discussing the change with your veterinarian to rule out underlying medical conditions. But for the average healthy short-coated dog, the solution isn't a shorter haircut, it's better coat maintenance.

What Kind of Brush is Great for De-Shedding Short & Medium Coated Dogs?

Mon, 08 Sep 2025 00:54:42 GMT

What Kind of Brush Is Great for De-Shedding Short and Medium-Coated Dogs?

Rubber curry brushes are one of the best grooming tools for removing loose hair from short and medium-coated dogs .

If you've ever wondered why your Labrador still leaves enough hair around the house to build another Labrador, you're not alone.

Many pet owners assume shedding is simply something they have to live with. While every dog sheds to some degree, using the right grooming tools can dramatically reduce the amount of loose hair ending up on your furniture, clothing, and floors.

One of the simplest and most effective tools for many short and medium-coated breeds is the rubber curry brush .

What Is a Rubber Curry Brush?

A rubber curry brush is a flexible grooming tool made from soft rubber with small rounded teeth or nubs. Unlike slicker brushes or metal combs, a curry brush gently loosens dead hair while massaging your dog's skin at the same time.

Because the rubber creates a slight static effect as it moves across the coat, loose hair clings to the brush instead of falling onto your floor.

Many dogs also enjoy the sensation, making grooming feel more like a relaxing massage than a chore.

Which Dogs Benefit Most?

Rubber curry brushes work especially well on breeds with short to medium coats.

Some excellent candidates include:

Labrador Retrievers
Beagles
Pugs
Boxers
Pit Bulls
Boston Terriers
French Bulldogs
Chihuahuas
Doberman Pinschers
Great Danes
Weimaraners
Vizslas
Rat Terriers
Jack Russell Terriers

They can also be helpful on many medium-coated breeds between professional grooming appointments to remove surface hair before it ends up all over your home.

Why Groomers Like Them

Professional groomers often reach for a rubber curry brush because it's gentle, effective, and versatile.

It loosens dead coat without scratching the skin, stimulates circulation, helps distribute the coat's natural oils, and leaves many short-coated dogs looking noticeably shinier after just a few minutes of brushing.

When used regularly, it can also reduce the amount of loose hair your dog sheds around the house.

Of course, no brush completely stops shedding. Dogs naturally replace old hair with new hair throughout the year. The goal isn't to eliminate shedding—it's to remove loose hair before it ends up on your couch.

How to Use a Rubber Curry Brush

Using a rubber curry brush is simple, but a few techniques can make it even more effective.

Brush using small circular motions with light to moderate pressure, allowing the rubber teeth to loosen dead hair while gently massaging the skin. Work your way across the entire body, paying extra attention to areas where shedding tends to be heavier, such as the back, sides, and hindquarters.

As the brush fills with hair, simply peel the collected fur away and continue grooming.

For many short-coated dogs, brushing once or twice a week is enough to noticeably reduce shedding around the home. During seasonal coat changes, more frequent brushing may help keep loose hair under control.

What a Rubber Curry Brush Won't Do

Although rubber curry brushes are excellent de-shedding tools, they aren't designed for every grooming task.

They won't:

Remove heavy undercoat from thick double-coated breeds.
Work through mats or tangles.
Replace professional grooming.
Trim or shape the coat.

Dogs with long, curly, or heavily matted coats require different grooming tools and techniques.

Pair It With Professional Grooming

Regular brushing at home helps reduce shedding between appointments, but it doesn't replace professional grooming .

Professional baths, high-velocity drying, and specialized de-shedding tools remove significantly more loose undercoat than most owners can achieve at home. When combined with routine brushing using a rubber curry brush, the results are even better.

If your goal is to keep shedding under control year-round, think of home brushing and professional grooming as partners rather than substitutes.

The Bottom Line

If you own a short or medium-coated dog, a rubber curry brush is one of the best grooming tools you can add to your collection.

It's inexpensive, easy to use, gentle on the skin, and highly effective at removing loose hair before it ends up covering your furniture.

Combined with regular professional grooming, a rubber curry brush can make a noticeable difference in the amount of shedding you see around your home while helping keep your dog's coat healthy, clean, and shiny.

Dog Breed Spotlight – The Scottish Terrier

Mon, 01 Sep 2025 00:49:50 GMT

Dog Breed Spotlight: The Scottish Terrier
Scottish Terrier Quick Facts

Breed Group: Terrier

Height: Approximately 10 inches

Weight: 18–22 pounds

Life Expectancy: 11–13 years

Coat Type: Double coat with a harsh, wiry outer coat and soft undercoat

Shedding: Low

Professional Grooming: Every 6–8 weeks

Exercise Needs: Moderate daily exercise and mental stimulation

The Scottish Terrier, or Scottie, is a small dog with a larger-than-life personality. Recognizable by their distinctive beard, bushy eyebrows, and wiry coat, Scotties are intelligent, independent, and full of confidence.

Scottish Terriers have been winning hearts for generations with their unmistakable appearance and fearless attitude. Although they're small in stature, they rarely realize it. They're bold, determined, and often convinced they're the biggest dog in the room.

Their independent nature can make them a little stubborn at times, but it's also part of what makes the breed so entertaining. Scotties form strong bonds with their families and are happiest with owners who appreciate a dog that likes to think for itself.

Temperament and Personality

Life with a Scottish Terrier is rarely boring.

Scotties are intelligent, curious, and often have a mischievous sense of humor. While they're affectionate with their families, they can be reserved around strangers and don't always feel the need to make friends with every person or dog they meet.

Early socialization helps them develop confidence and good manners, but owners should remember that Scottish Terriers were originally bred to work independently. That independent streak is still very much part of the breed today.

Grooming Requirements

One of the Scottish Terrier's most recognizable features is its beautiful double coat, consisting of a harsh, wiry outer coat and a soft insulating undercoat.

Although many people assume the breed is low maintenance because it doesn't shed heavily, proper coat care is essential. Without regular brushing and professional grooming, mats can develop, particularly in the beard, legs, and furnishings.

Most pet Scotties benefit from professional grooming every 6 to 8 weeks, combined with routine brushing at home.

Show dogs are often maintained through hand stripping , a specialized grooming technique that removes dead outer coat while preserving the coat's natural texture and color. While hand stripping remains the preferred method for many dogs competing in conformation, it isn't necessary for most family pets.

For everyday companions, regular trimming, brushing, and combing provide an attractive, practical coat that's much easier for owners to maintain.

At Home Coat Maintenance

Between professional grooming appointments, owners can help keep their Scottie's coat in good condition by:

Brushing with both a slicker brush and a metal comb.

Working from the skin outward to prevent hidden mats.

Paying special attention to the beard, legs, belly, and furnishings.

Avoiding frequent home baths unless they're prepared to thoroughly dry and comb the coat afterward.

Improper bathing or allowing the coat to air dry without combing can actually contribute to matting, making the next grooming appointment more difficult for both the dog and the groomer.

Regular maintenance keeps the coat healthier and helps ensure your Scottie remains comfortable between appointments.

Health Considerations

Scottish Terriers are generally hardy little dogs, but like every breed, they have several inherited health concerns prospective owners should understand.

One of the most unique is Scottie Cramp, an inherited neurological condition that affects muscle coordination during periods of excitement, exercise, or stress.

Although the episodes can look alarming, Scottie Cramp isn't painful and isn't considered a true seizure disorder. Many owners compare it to the way fainting goats temporarily stiffen when startled. Affected Scotties may arch their backs, develop a stiff, high-stepping gait, or appear briefly uncoordinated before returning completely to normal once the excitement passes.

Other health conditions seen within the breed include:

Von Willebrand disease

Hypothyroidism

Transitional cell carcinoma (bladder cancer)

Other forms of cancer that become more common with age

Routine wellness examinations, annual bloodwork, urinalysis, and maintaining a healthy body weight all help support a longer, healthier life.

Is the Scottish Terrier Right for You?

Scottish Terriers are wonderful companions for the right owner, but they aren't the best fit for every household.

They thrive with people who appreciate an intelligent, confident dog with plenty of personality. Scotties are independent thinkers, which means they may question whether your idea is actually worth following before deciding to cooperate.

They're generally loyal to their families and often develop especially close bonds with one or two people. While many are affectionate, they usually aren't the type of dog that demands constant attention.

Because of their terrier heritage, Scotties retain a strong prey drive. Squirrels, rabbits, and other small animals can quickly become the focus of an enthusiastic chase, so a securely fenced yard and leash walks are always recommended.

Finding a Responsible Breeder

If you're considering adding a Scottish Terrier to your family, take the time to research reputable breeders who perform appropriate health testing and are committed to preserving the breed's temperament and health.

Responsible breeders should be willing to discuss inherited conditions found within the breed, answer your questions honestly, and provide ongoing support throughout your dog's life.

Avoid purchasing puppies from pet stores, puppy mills, or anyone unwilling to provide health information about the parents. You can find breeder referrals and rescue resources in the links below.

Final Thoughts

The Scottish Terrier is proof that confidence doesn't come in one size.

Behind those famous eyebrows and that dignified beard is a dog with tremendous heart, unwavering loyalty, and enough personality to fill a house. They're intelligent, entertaining, and wonderfully unique, but they also require owners who understand their independent nature and commit to regular coat maintenance.

Whether your Scottie wears a traditional hand-stripped show coat or a practical pet trim, consistent grooming plays an important role in keeping the coat healthy, comfortable, and looking its best.

With proper care, regular grooming, and plenty of opportunities to explore the world at their own determined pace, Scottish Terriers reward their families with years of faithful companionship, quiet confidence, and more than a few moments that will make you laugh.

If you've ever shared your home with a Scottie, you already know one thing is certain:

You don't own a Scottish Terrier.

They graciously allow you to live with them.

Helpful Scottish Terrier Resources

Scottish Terrier Club of America (Parent Club)
https://stca.biz/

Find an STCA Member Breeder
https://stca.biz/find-a-scottie/find-stca-member-breeders/

Scottish Terrier Rescue
https://stca.biz/find-a-scottie/rescue/

Regional Scottish Terrier Clubs
https://stca.biz/about-the-stca/regional-clubs/

What Is a Puppy Cut? (Hint: It’s Probably Not What You Think)

Sun, 31 Aug 2025 00:07:18 GMT

What Is a Puppy Cut? (Hint: It's Not What You Think)

A Las Vegas groomer explains what people really mean when they ask for a "puppy cut."

If you've ever called a grooming salon and confidently said, "I'd like a puppy cut, please," you may have noticed a brief pause on the other end of the phone.

That pause isn't because your groomer doesn't know what they're doing.

It's because "puppy cut" is one of the most confusing, misunderstood, and mythical phrases in the grooming industry and there is no actual haircut that's called a puppy cut.

There Really Isn't a Universal Puppy Cut

Let's clear up one of the biggest misconceptions in dog grooming.

There is no universally recognized grooming style called a puppy cut.

Now, before you clutch your pearls and say, "But my neighbor's dog gets one!" hear me out.

The term means something different to almost everyone who uses it INCLUDING groomers.

For some people, a puppy cut means clipping the entire coat very short. Others picture a fluffy, shaggy look with plenty of length. Some think it means trimming only the face, feet, and sanitary areas while leaving everything else natural. Others want something that falls somewhere in between.

See the problem?

Every pet parent has a different picture in their head, and unless your groomer has suddenly developed mind reading abilities, asking for a puppy cut is a bit like walking into a restaurant you've never visited and ordering, "I'll have the usual."

Why "Puppy Cut" Creates So Much Confusion

Imagine walking into your hair salon and telling your stylist:

"I'd like the stylish haircut."

She'd probably smile politely while wondering if you meant a pixie cut, a bob, layers, curtain bangs, or maybe even a mullet.

That's exactly what happens when someone requests a puppy cut.

The phrase isn't an actual grooming style. It's a catch-all term that has never had one accepted definition.

Ask ten professional groomers what a puppy cut is, and you'll probably get ten different answers.

Some groomers even joke that "puppy cut" is code for "surprise haircut."

Surprises are great on birthdays.

They're much less exciting when they involve your dog's haircut.

A Better Way to Describe What You Want

I nstead of asking for a puppy cut and hoping your groomer pictures the same thing you do , simply describe the look you're hoping to achieve.

You don't need to know blade numbers or grooming terminology. In fact, most groomers would rather you didn't.

Simple descriptions are far more helpful, such as:

Short
Medium length
Longer
Fluffy
Shorter but still fluffy
Short, but not shaved
Short and cute
Just take a little off
Leave a little fluff

These descriptions immediately give your groomer a better starting point than the words puppy cut ever could.

Once they know whether you're leaning toward short, medium, or fluffy, they'll ask a few questions to fine-tune the haircut.

That's much easier than trying to decode a phrase that means something different to every client. And if you aren't quite sure? We are over the moon! Just tell us to do what we think. We got this.

Groomers Don't Need a Step-by-Step Instruction Manual

One of the most common things we see is pet parents trying so hard to explain the haircut that they forget we already know how to do the job.

You don't have to tell us what blade to use, how to angle the scissors, or exactly how to trim the feet. That's our craft, and every groomer has their own techniques for getting there.

What helps us most is knowing the result you'd like to see and any important factors that affect them, not the exact method you think will achieve it.

If you keep repeating enigmatic terms like "puppy cut" or " teddy bear cut ," we're still left trying to interpret what those words mean to you.

But if you say something like, "I'd like her a little shorter, but still fluffy enough to cuddle," you've given us something we can actually work with and we know JUST what to do.

Why Words Matter

Think of it this way.

When you ask for a puppy cut, you're handing your groomer a puzzle without showing them the picture on the box.

Some of the pieces may fit, but the finished result may not match what you had in mind.

When you use simple, descriptive language instead, you give us that picture. It doesn't have to be perfect. Even a rough sketch of what you're hoping for is usually enough for an experienced groomer to fill in the details.

So...What Is a Puppy Cut?

At the end of the day, a puppy cut isn't really a haircut at all.

It's a nickname.

It's the dog grooming world's version of saying, "Just make my dog look cute."

And while every groomer wants your dog to look adorable, cute means something different to every owner.

For some, it means a shorter haircut that's easy to maintain.

For others, it means leaving plenty of fluff.

Some owners simply use the phrase because they've heard it before without realizing there isn't one standard style behind it.

The truth is simple.

There has never been a universal definition of a puppy cut.

A Groomer's Gentle Plea

The next time you're scheduling a grooming appointment, skip the mysterious "puppy cut" request and tell your groomer what you actually want to see.

Let us know if you prefer fluffy ears or shorter ears. Tell us whether you'd like the tail left natural or neatened up. Tell us if you're looking for a fuller, cuddly appearance or something shorter that's easy to maintain.

We'll take it from there.

That's what we're trained to do.

Think of us as translators. You bring the vision, and we turn it into a haircut that works for both you and your dog (They get to outvote us all).

The Final Word on Puppy Cuts

If you remember only one thing from this article, let it be this:

There is no single, official definition of a puppy cut.

It's one of those grooming phrases that creates far more confusion than clarity.

Instead, describe the length and overall look you'd like using everyday language, then trust your groomer to handle the technical details.

We promise your dog can look absolutely adorable whether you call it a puppy cut, a teddy bear trim , or simply "short and cute."

We'll probably ask a few follow-up questions anyway, because we care far too much about getting it right to rely on a phrase that means something different to everyone.

And remember, while we can't read minds, we can usually turn your vision into a happy, healthy, great looking dog.

Here in Las Vegas, where it's hot enough to fry an egg on the sidewalk and people still manage to dress their Chihuahuas in rhinestone jackets, the phrase puppy cut can mean almost anything. One groomer's "short and fluffy" may be another groomer's "summer trim."

The easiest way to get the haircut you want is simply to describe it in plain language. Your groomer will do the rest, and unlike what happens in Vegas, your dog's haircut is definitely coming home with you.

Dryer Induced Seizures at the Groomer: What Pet Parents Need to Know

Sat, 30 Aug 2025 23:50:33 GMT

Dryer-Induced Seizures at the Groomer: What Pet Parents Need to Know

The first time you hear the words "dryer-induced seizure" from your pet groomer, your heart probably drops into your stomach. After all, the word seizure usually brings to mind a serious medical emergency. For many pet parents, the idea of their dog having one at the groomer sounds frightening.

The good news is that what groomers commonly refer to as dryer-induced seizures are often very different from what most people imagine. In many cases, they're an age-related reaction to the noise, vibration, and stress of a high-velocity grooming dryer. They can frequently be managed with a few simple adjustments during the grooming appointment, allowing your dog to continue enjoying regular grooming safely.

Let's take a closer look at what dryer-induced seizures are, why they occur more often in senior dogs, and how experienced groomers help keep these pets comfortable.

What Are Dryer-Induced Seizures?

When a groomer refers to a dryer-induced seizure, they're usually describing a temporary neurological reaction that occurs while a dog is being dried with a high-velocity grooming dryer.

This is not the same as a grand mal epileptic seizure, which often requires lifelong veterinary treatment and medication.

Instead, dryer-induced episodes are typically triggered by the combination of loud noise, vibration, and stress. Dogs may display behaviors such as:

Trembling
Twitching
Circling
Temporary stiffness
Vocalizing, including screaming or howling
Rapid stepping or "tap dancing"

Although these reactions can look alarming, they're generally not life-threatening. One of the defining characteristics is that the episode usually stops once the dryer is turned off.

Experienced groomers recognize these signs immediately. Rather than pushing through the groom, they stop the dryer, allow the dog to relax, and adjust the remainder of the appointment to reduce stress.

Why Older Dogs Are More Susceptible

Just like people, dogs become more sensitive as they age.

Things that never bothered them when they were younger can suddenly become overwhelming. Maybe your once-confident dog now hides during fireworks or becomes anxious during thunderstorms after years of ignoring them.

Dryer-induced seizures often follow this same pattern.

Many dogs tolerate professional grooming for years without a problem, then begin showing sensitivity later in life. Their tolerance for loud noise, strong airflow, vibration, or the sensation of air against their skin may gradually decrease as their nervous system ages.

This is one reason experienced groomers often make adjustments automatically when working with senior dogs, even if the owner hasn't mentioned a previous history of dryer sensitivity. It's a fairly common age-related reaction, and seasoned groomers recognize the warning signs before the situation escalates

Why Rushing Isn't the Answer

One of the biggest misconceptions is that a dog experiencing dryer sensitivity should simply be groomed faster to "get it over with."

Unfortunately, the opposite is true.

Rushing increases stress, and stress is one of the biggest triggers for these episodes.

Dogs that are prone to dryer-induced seizures usually benefit from more time , not less.

Rather than speeding through the drying process, experienced groomers often slow things down, spread drying over multiple stages, dry the dog on lower speeds and give the dog opportunities to relax between sessions if needed.

Think of it less as rushing through an appointment and more as giving your senior pet extra breaks throughout their spa day.

How Groomers Safely Manage Dryer-Induced Seizures

The encouraging news is that, in most cases, dryer-induced seizures can be managed with a few simple adjustments to the grooming routine. Experienced groomers tailor the appointment to the individual dog, helping reduce stress while still providing a safe, thorough groom.

Some of the most common modifications include:

Modified haircuts : A shorter, easier-to-maintain haircut may be recommended if it significantly reduces drying time. Less drying often means less stress.
Air drying: Some dogs benefit from a combination of towel drying and air drying before a low-velocity dryer is used. Allowing much of the moisture to evaporate naturally reduces the amount of time the dryer needs to be on.
Cotton in the ears or 'happy hoodie': High-velocity dryers are loud. Placing cotton in the ears or a happy hoodie over them helps muffle the noise, making the experience less overwhelming for sensitive dogs.
Lower dryer settings: Reducing the airflow creates a gentler drying experience. This is one reason it's so important to keep your dog's coat free of mats and tangles. A well-maintained coat dries much more easily, allowing the groomer to use lower settings whenever possible.
Frequent breaks: Rather than one continuous drying session, many groomers dry senior or sensitive dogs in shorter stages, giving them time to relax between each one.

In rare cases, a dog simply cannot tolerate being around high-velocity dryers at all. Some are sensitive enough that they can't even remain in the drying room because of the noise. Thankfully, this is the exception rather than the rule. Most dogs with dryer-induced seizures only react during their own drying session and can still be groomed successfully with a modified approach.

Why Lifelong Medication Usually Isn't Necessary

Because the word seizure sounds so serious, many owners worry that their dog will require medication for the rest of its life.

Fortunately, that's usually not the case.

Dryer-induced seizures are considered situational . They occur during the drying process and generally stop once the dryer is removed. They aren't ongoing neurological events that continue throughout the day or require long-term seizure medication.

This is why it's so important to tell your groomer if your dog has experienced dryer sensitivity before. Knowing about previous episodes allows the groomer to adjust the appointment from the very beginning instead of discovering the problem halfway through the groom.

Shih Tzu relaxing during a warm bath at a professional grooming salon.

Should Dogs With Dryer-Induced Seizures Continue Being Groomed?

Absolutely.

In fact, maintaining a regular grooming schedule often becomes even more important.

Skipping grooming can lead to painful mats, unhealthy skin, excessive coat buildup, and additional discomfort. Instead of avoiding grooming altogether, the goal is to adapt the appointment to your dog's changing needs.

Your groomer may recommend:

More frequent grooming appointments to prevent matting.
A haircut that requires less drying time.
Longer appointments with additional breaks.
Regular brushing and combing at home to make drying easier and less stressful.

With these simple adjustments, most dogs continue to enjoy safe, comfortable grooming throughout their senior years.

A Little Perspective

If you're still feeling anxious, remember that dogs usually recover from these episodes much faster than we do emotionally.

While we're replaying the event in our minds, most dogs have already moved on and are looking for treats, belly rubs, or the nearest tennis ball.

It's a bit like Grandpa complaining that the neighbor's lawn mower has suddenly become unbearably loud. His tolerance for noise isn't what it used to be, but with a little patience and a few accommodations, life carries on just fine.

Our senior dogs deserve that same understanding.

What Pet Parents Can Do

Y ou can help your groomer tremendously by communicating openly .

If your dog has ever shown signs of dryer sensitivity, mention it when you drop them off. That information allows the groomer to plan a lower-stress appointment from the start.

You can also help by maintaining your dog's coat between appointments. Regular brushing and combing reduce tangles and mats, allowing the coat to dry more quickly and comfortably.

Finally, try to stay calm yourself. Dogs often pick up on our emotions, and a relaxed owner helps create a more relaxed dog.

The Bottom Line

Dryer-induced seizures may sound frightening, but they're actually a fairly common and manageable issue, particularly in older dogs.

They are not usually a sign of serious neurological disease or an indication that your dog will need lifelong medication. Instead, they remind us that our senior pets sometimes need a little extra patience and a few adjustments as they age.

With an experienced groomer, thoughtful modifications, and open communication, most dogs continue to enjoy safe, low-stress grooming appointments for many years.

After all, grooming has never been just about looking good. It's about maintaining your dog's health, comfort, and quality of life.

Keeping Your Dog Cool in the Las Vegas Heat: Grooming Tips Every Pet Parent Should Know

Fri, 29 Aug 2025 23:39:29 GMT

Keeping Your Dog Cool in the Las Vegas Heat: Grooming Tips Every Pet Parent Should Know

German Shepherds stay cooler with regular grooming and undercoat removal during hot Las Vegas summers.

Las Vegas summers are no joke, and our dogs feel the heat just as much as we do. With triple-digit temperatures and blazing sunshine, many pet parents wonder how they can help their furry family members stay comfortable. Grooming plays a much bigger role in keeping dogs cool and healthy than most people realize. The right grooming routine doesn't just make your dog look fresh—it also helps regulate body temperature, protects the skin, and reduces the risk of heat-related coat problems during the hottest months of the year.

Below are professional grooming tips designed for our desert climate, along with the truth about shaving, double coats, and the best summer grooming practices.

Why Shaving Isn't Always the Answer

One of the biggest misconceptions is that shaving your dog short automatically keeps them cooler. In reality, shorter doesn't always mean cooler.

For many breeds, especially double-coated dogs like Golden Retrievers, Siberian Huskies, and German Shepherds, the coat provides natural insulation. It helps protect the skin from direct sunlight while also helping regulate body temperature.

Shaving a double coat can remove that natural protection, increasing the risk of sunburn and making it more difficult for your dog to stay comfortable in the heat. Instead of shaving , professional undercoat removal is often the better solution. Removing loose undercoat allows better airflow while leaving the protective outer coat intact.

Strategic Trimming Can Improve Comfort

Although a complete shave usually isn't recommended for double-coated breeds, trimming certain areas can improve comfort during the summer.

The belly, armpits, and sanitary areas can often be kept shorter, allowing dogs to cool themselves more effectively when lying on cool tile, shaded concrete, or other cool surfaces.

Regular, maintainable desheds or haircuts can also reduce bulk, make brushing easier, and prevent heavy coats from trapping unnecessary heat.

Mats Make Dogs Hotter

Mats aren't just a cosmetic problem—they can significantly affect your dog's comfort.

When hair becomes matted, airflow to the skin is reduced. Heat and moisture become trapped beneath the coat, creating an environment where hot spots, skin irritation, and infections can develop.

Keeping the coat free of tangles and mats allows proper ventilation and helps your dog stay cooler throughout the summer.

Professional grooming removes mats safely , while routine brushing between appointments helps prevent them from forming.

Don't Forget About Nail Care

Nail trimming becomes even more important during the summer months.

During cooler weather, many dogs naturally wear their nails down by walking outdoors more frequently. In the Las Vegas heat, however, dogs often spend much more time indoors where carpet, tile, and other household flooring don't naturally shorten the nails.

As nails continue growing, they can alter the way a dog stands and walks, placing additional stress on the toes, feet, joints, and legs. Keeping nails properly trimmed helps maintain comfort and supports healthy movement during summer activities.

Golden Retrievers benefit from regular undercoat removal during Las Vegas summers to reduce shedding and improve airflow.

Dog Breeds That Benefit From Regular Summer Grooming

Every dog benefits from routine grooming, but some breeds especially appreciate regular coat maintenance during hot desert summers.

These include:

Shih Tzu
Golden Retriever
Siberian Husky
German Shepherd
Pomeranian
Cocker Spaniel
Australian Shepherd
Labrador Retriever
Maltese
Yorkshire Terrier

Each breed has different grooming needs, but all benefit from keeping the coat clean, free of excess undercoat, properly maintained, and well ventilated.

Grooming Is About More Than Appearance

Looking great is just one benefit of professional grooming .

In Las Vegas, regular grooming helps remove excess undercoat, prevents painful matting, improves air circulation through the coat, keeps nails at a healthy length, and helps dogs stay cleaner and more comfortable during extreme summer temperatures.

A well-maintained coat works with your dog's natural cooling system instead of against it.

The Bottom Line

Summer grooming isn't about giving every dog the shortest haircut possible. It's about choosing the right grooming approach for your dog's individual coat type.

With proper brushing, routine professional grooming, regular nail care, and appropriate undercoat removal, your dog will be far more comfortable during the long Las Vegas summer while maintaining the natural protection their coat was designed to provide.

Understanding Hand Stripping in Dog Grooming

Thu, 28 Aug 2025 23:20:37 GMT

Understanding Hand Stripping in Dog Grooming

If you're looking for hand stripping in Las Vegas, seek out a groomer experienced in this specialized grooming technique.

When pet parents begin researching grooming options for their terriers and other wire-coated breeds, one term they often come across is hand stripping . For some, it sounds like an old-fashioned grooming method. Others know it as the preferred grooming technique for many show dogs. With so many grooming methods available, it can be difficult to know which approach is right for your dog. Understanding what hand stripping is—and when it's used—can help you make an informed decision.

Hand stripping is a grooming technique used primarily on wire-coated breeds. Unlike clipping or scissoring, which cuts the hair, hand stripping removes dead coat by hand or with specialized stripping tools. This allows new coat to grow in with its natural texture, color, and harshness. While the concept is simple, the process is time-consuming and requires skill, patience, and experience to perform correctly.

The Tools Used in Hand Stripping

Professional hand strippers use a combination of their fingers and specialized grooming tools to remove the dead outer coat. Common tools include stripping knives, stripping stones, pumice stones, and rubber finger cots that improve grip on coarse hairs.

These tools aren't sharp like clipper blades. Instead, they're designed to help the groomer grip and remove dead hair in a controlled manner. Because hairs are removed individually or in very small sections, hand stripping takes considerably longer than a traditional clipper or scissor groom.

Experienced hand strippers often switch between their fingers, stripping knives, and stones throughout the groom. The tool selected depends on the coat type and the area of the body being worked on. For example, a stripping knife may be ideal across the back and sides, while fingers or a stripping stone provide greater control around the face and other delicate areas. Learning these techniques takes years of hands-on experience.

Irish Terrier maintained with traditional hand stripping. Finding an experienced hand-stripping groomer in Las Vegas may require seeking out a specialist.

Why Some Dogs Are Hand Stripped

Hand stripping is most commonly associated with dogs competing in conformation shows because it preserves the natural coat texture and appearance required by many breed standards. Wire-coated terriers have traditionally been maintained this way, and judges continue to expect that natural finish in the show ring.

Some pet owners also choose hand stripping because they prefer the harsher texture, richer color, and classic appearance it helps maintain.

That said, clipping and scissoring remain the most common grooming methods for pet dogs today. They're practical, efficient, easier to maintain, and produce beautiful results for the vast majority of family pets. Unless you're actively showing your dog or specifically want a traditionally maintained wire coat, there is no requirement that your dog be hand stripped.

The Cost and Availability of Hand Stripping

One of the biggest differences between hand stripping and traditional grooming is the time involved. Because each section of coat is stripped by hand, appointments take significantly longer and require specialized training. As a result, hand stripping typically costs more than a standard grooming appointment.

It's also a specialty service that isn't offered by every grooming salon. Most groomers focus on clipper and scissor work because that's what the overwhelming majority of pet owners request.

If you're searching for hand stripping in Las Vegas, you'll likely need to seek out someone who specializes in the technique.

Breeds Commonly Hand Stripped

Not every breed is a candidate for hand stripping. The technique is generally reserved for breeds with wire coats that naturally respond well to the process.

Some of the most commonly hand-stripped breeds include:

Wire Fox Terrier
Welsh Terrier
Airedale Terrier
Border Terrier
Scottish Terrier
West Highland White Terrier
Miniature , Standard, and Giant Schnauzers
Irish Terrier
Lakeland Terrier
Brussels Griffon

Many of these breeds are still groomed with clippers instead of being hand stripped, particularly when they are family pets rather than competition dogs. Both grooming methods are acceptable, depending on the owner's goals and lifestyle.

Is Hand Stripping Right for Your Dog?

The decision comes down to your goals, your budget, and your dog's lifestyle.

Hand stripping preserves a traditional wire coat and is the preferred choice for many show dogs, but it requires more time, specialized skill, and a larger financial investment.

Traditional clipping and scissoring are faster, more affordable, widely available, and produce attractive, easy to maintain results for most pet dogs.

It's also important to remember that not every dog enjoys the hand stripping process. While experienced professionals work gently and efficiently, some dogs simply tolerate clipping better. Discuss your expectations with an experienced groomer to determine which grooming method is the best fit for your individual dog.

Hand Stripping vs. Everyday Grooming

In Las Vegas, most grooming appointments focus on keeping pets clean, comfortable, and manageable in the desert climate. Breed trims, pet styles, and practical maintenance grooms performed with clippers and scissors remain the most popular choice for everyday family dogs.

Hand stripping remains a niche specialty, primarily chosen by dedicated breed enthusiasts and owners preparing dogs for the show ring.

Final Thoughts

Hand stripping is one of the grooming industry's most specialized techniques. It requires different tools, more time, and considerable experience, making it very different from a traditional grooming appointment.

Neither hand stripping nor clipping is inherently better than the other. They simply serve different purposes.

Whether your dog is preparing for the show ring or simply enjoying life as a beloved family companion, choosing the grooming method that best fits your goals will help keep them healthy, comfortable, and looking their best.

Why You Shouldn’t Treat Your Pet Groomer Like Your Hair Salon

Wed, 27 Aug 2025 23:14:59 GMT

Why You Shouldn't Treat Your Pet Groomer Like Your Hair Salon

Let's get this out of the way right now: bringing your dog to the groomer is not the same thing as booking yourself a fresh balayage, blowout, or spa day at the salon. Your groomer isn't secretly sipping lattes in the back while flipping through celebrity magazines, waiting to debate curtain bangs with your Doodle. Pet grooming and human hair salons may both involve scissors, brushes, and dryers, but that's where the similarities end.

One exists primarily for your appearance and self-expression. The other exists to keep your four-legged friend healthy, comfortable, and hygienic. And trust me, your dog doesn't care about highlights.

Grooming Is About Health and Hygiene First

When you visit your hairstylist, the focus is almost entirely on appearance. You might be getting a trim, a new color, or a completely different look.

When your dog comes to the grooming salon, appearance is secondary. The first priority is your pet's health, comfort, and hygiene.

That matted Goldendoodle coat isn't just unattractive it's painful. Mats constantly pull on the skin, hide hot spots, restrict air circulation, and can even conceal fleas, ticks, wounds, or skin infections. Long nails don't simply make clicking sounds on your tile floor. As they continue to grow, they force the toes into an unnatural position, changing the way the foot contacts the ground and placing additional stress on the feet, legs, joints, shoulders, and even the spine. Dirty ears can trap moisture, wax, and debris that contribute to irritation and infection.

Your groomer's first responsibility is preventing unnecessary discomfort and maintaining your dog's well-being. If the haircut looks adorable afterward, that's an added bonus.

Our "Clients" Are Very Different

Your hairstylist's client is you.

You sit comfortably in a chair, scroll through your phone, chat with your stylist, and understand exactly what's happening throughout the appointment.

Our clients are a little different.

They're wiggly, nervous, excited, distracted, and sometimes convinced the clippers are plotting against them. Some bark, some squirm, some try to sit down every five seconds, and a few decide that today's the perfect day to practice their wrestling moves.

While we're working with razor sharp shears around eyes, ears, feet, and tails, our client is thinking about squirrels. That's why groomers often refer to the dog as the client and the owner as the customer. Everything we do revolves around safely caring for the dog.

I try to make it clear from the beginning that the pet is my actual client and the two-legger is the one paying the bill.

Of course I want to know what you like, what you don’t like, what works for your lifestyle, and what you are hoping for. But I am the groomer, not your waitress taking an order, and I am going to make the grooming decisions based on the dog standing in front of me and what’s happening on the table that day.

That is what groomers train for. Every dog is different. The same haircut, blade, guard comb, technique, or length can look completely different depending on coat texture, density, color, condition, growth pattern, anatomy, and how that particular dog handles the grooming process. Most of the time, I do not know exactly what is going to give me the best result until I have the dog on my table and I am actually working with them. I need the freedom to adjust as I go, because that is part of doing my job well and doing it safely.

Your preferences absolutely matter. Tell me if you like the ears long or short, if you hate a beard, if you want your dog fluffy, if you want something easier to maintain, or if there is something about the last haircut you loved or hated. Show me pictures if they help explain what you are picturing. Then let me take that information and translate it into a haircut that actually works for your dog.

As a result, my clients have learned to trust me and the decisions I make, and it makes for the best and easiest relationship for all of us. Most of them hand me the leash and basically say, “You know my dog. Do whatever needs to be done.”

There is no arguing over blade numbers or trying to micromanage every detail because they trust me to make the decisions I was trained to make, and they know their dog and their comfort comes first with me.

That trust gives me the ability to adjust when something is different that day and to give their dog the best groom I can, instead of being locked into instructions that may not make sense or look good once the dog is actually on my table.

The Tools May Look Similar, but Their Purpose Isn't

Human salons have color bowls, curling irons, straighteners, and shelves filled with products designed to create volume, shine, and style.

Professional grooming salons have heavy-duty clippers, precision shears, nail trimmers, grinders, force dryers, specialized shampoos, conditioners, and grooming equipment designed to maintain skin, coat, nails, and overall health.

These tools aren't primarily about fashion, they're about keeping pets clean, comfortable, and healthy.

Every Groom Has a Different Goal

When you book a haircut, your biggest concern may be whether your color turns out exactly the way you imagined.

When we schedule a grooming appointment, our priority is completing the groom safely while minimizing stress for the dog.

That means adjusting our approach based on age, coat condition, temperament, medical concerns, mobility, and tolerance for grooming.

Sometimes that means a severely matted Doodle can't safely receive the fluffy teddy bear trim shown in an inspiration photo.

Sometimes it means a senior Pug receives a shorter comfort groom with frequent breaks because standing for several hours simply isn't fair to an aging dog.

Health, safety, and comfort will always come before cosmetic goals.

Grooming Takes More Work Than Most People Realize

A typical human haircut may last 30 to 90 minutes. Even longer color appointments usually involve sitting comfortably while your stylist works.

A professional dog groom can easily take three hours or more depending on the breed, coat condition, behavior, and services being performed.

During that time we're bathing, force drying, brushing, removing undercoat, clipping, scissoring, trimming nails, cleaning ears, checking anal glands when requested, lifting dogs, preventing slips, monitoring behavior, and constantly adjusting to an animal that may not want to cooperate.

It's physically demanding work that requires concentration from start to finish.

Grooming Is an Emotional Experience for Dogs

People may be disappointed by a haircut they don't like, but they understand the process.

Dogs don't. For many pets, grooming is a vulnerable experience. A rushed or frightening appointment can make future visits increasingly stressful.

That's why experienced groomers often slow down, offer breaks, or even recommend finishing another day if continuing would create unnecessary fear or stress.

Building trust is every bit as important as creating a beautiful haircut.

Why the Hair Salon Comparison Doesn't Work

When grooming is compared directly to a human salon, unrealistic expectations often follow.

We hear things like:

"Can you just trim a little off the top?" (Not when the coat is matted to the skin.)
"Why does grooming cost more than my haircut?" (Because your hairstylist isn't bathing you, drying your entire body, trimming your nails, cleaning your ears, shaving your paw pads, and safely working around a moving client.)
"Why doesn't my dog look exactly like this Pinterest picture? " (Because your dog isn't the same breed, doesn't have the same coat, and arrived after swimming, rolling in the yard, and developing mats.)

Every dog is different, and every groom starts with the dog standing on the table, not the picture on your phone.

Final Brush Out

At the end of the day, your hair salon exists to make you look good.

Your pet grooming salon exists to help your dog feel good, stay healthy, and live comfortably.

The scissors and dryers may look familiar, but the goals, challenges, and responsibilities couldn't be more different.

So the next time you drop off your dog, remember that your groomer isn't simply giving a haircut. They're providing an important part of your dog's overall health and hygiene while working with a living, moving client that doesn't always cooperate or understand our reasons.

When your dog goes home clean, comfortable, healthy, and wagging their tail, that's a successful grooming appointment .

Ear Educated: A Groomers Take on Grooming, Plucking, and Ear Cleaning Etiquette

Tue, 26 Aug 2025 23:03:58 GMT

Ear Educated: A Groomer's Take on Grooming, Plucking, and Ear Cleaning Etiquette

Let's get one thing straight (or clean): grooming a dog's ears isn't rocket science, but it sure creates plenty of debate. Ear cleaning, ear plucking, and proper ear care are topics that often spark strong opinions between groomers, veterinarians, and pet owners. Understanding where a groomer's role begins and where it ends helps everyone work together for the benefit of the dog.

Why Some Groomers Have Become Cautious Or Outright Refuse About Ear Plucking

Picture this: your veterinarian examines your dog's ears, and sometime afterward an ear infection develops. Even if the groomer followed standard grooming protocols weeks earlier, they're often the first person blamed.

This is one reason many groomers have become more conservative with ear plucking and ear cleaning.

Some of the reasons include:

Client backlash after veterinary visits. Groomers frequently hear comments like, "You pulled too much hair," "You didn't pull enough," "You poked too deep," "You got water in the ears," or "You should have cleaned them better," even when they followed accepted grooming practices.
Deep ear debris. Groomers generally don't remove debris deep within the ear canal. Material can surface after a veterinary examination or cleaning, creating the impression that the groomer caused the problem.
Ear infections appearing later. Moisture, wax, allergies, and many other factors contribute to ear infections. When one develops after a grooming appointment, the groomer is often blamed regardless of the actual cause.
Different professional training . Veterinarians receive medical training, while groomers receive grooming education. Both professions have valuable knowledge, but they approach ear care from different perspectives.

When the Groomer Is the One Who Finds the Problem

Here is one that has frustrated groomers for years. We notice that a dog's ear is red, irritated, smelly, full of unusual debris, or simply doesn't look right. We tell the owner what we found and recommend having the veterinarian take a look at it. The owner does exactly that, only to come back and tell us the veterinarian said the ear problem was probably caused by grooming.

Wait. We found it, told you about it, and sent you to the vet for it, but somehow we also caused it?

Groomers don't diagnose ear infections, nor should we. What we can do is recognize when something doesn't look normal. If I notice redness, odor, unusual discharge, swelling, sensitivity, or excessive debris, I try to tell you what I see and recommend veterinary care when appropriate. If the abnormality was already there for me to notice and report, that should be pretty important information when everyone starts trying to figure out what happened. BUT, there are also times we aren't sure or whatever is going on already is lurking just under the surface and not visibly obvious to us.

Unfortunately, groomers hear every possible explanation afterward. We plucked the ear hair, so we caused it. We didn't pluck the ear hair, so apparently we caused it that way instead. We didn't pluck ENOUGH ear hair. We cleaned the ears. We didn't clean them enough. Then there is an old favorite: we must have gotten water in the dog's ears during the bath. Never mind that keeping water out of ear canals is something professional groomers are specifically trained to do and take precautions against every single day. Most veterinarians have never been trained to professionally bathe and dry dogs, so they may not realize just how much care experienced groomers actually take around the ears during a bath. Keeping water out of them isn't some obscure advanced technique. It's Grooming 101.

And all of this may be being magically determined by someone who wasn't there and has no idea what actually happened or did not happen during the grooming appointment with lengths of time in between where many things could have occurred.

The dog's history matters too. If I have groomed the same dog every six weeks for years using the same bathing techniques and that dog has almost no history of ear infections, it doesn't make much sense to suddenly decide that I forgot how to keep water out of its ears this particular Tuesday. Maybe we've had weeks of unusually humid weather. Maybe the dog has been swimming or playing in water. Maybe there is a new puppy in the house constantly licking, chewing, and playing with everyone's ears. Maybe allergies are flaring up. Maybe something else has changed that nobody has even thought of yet. None of those things automatically prove what caused the infection either, and that's exactly the point.

An ear infection occurring sometime around a grooming appointment does not automatically mean the grooming caused it. Moisture, wax, allergies, and other factors can contribute to ear infections, something this article already discusses. Looking at the dog's history, what was observed before and during grooming, what has changed recently, and what is actually happening medically makes considerably more sense than simply looking at the calendar and deciding the groomer did it.

Could grooming ever contribute to ear irritation? Of course. We work on living, breathing dogs, and pretending nothing could ever happen during grooming would be ridiculous. What is equally ridiculous is treating a recent grooming appointment as proof of causation. Diagnosing an ear infection is one thing. Knowing exactly what caused that infection is another.

Sometimes the groomer didn't cause the ear problem. Sometimes we're just the annoying person who looked closely enough to find it and told you to call your vet. Sometimes we just happen to groom your dog every 4, 6 or 8 weeks so your never far from your grooming appointment when an ear problem flairs up. SOMETIMES the vet has no idea life happened and it had been 6 months since your last grooming appointment shortly before your most recent trip to the vet.

What Do Grooming Guidelines Recommend?

According to AKC guidance and professional grooming education, routine ear maintenance is generally limited to the visible portions of the ear.

Safe grooming practices typically include:

Wiping only the visible outer ear with a cotton ball or pet-safe wipe.
Avoiding Q-tips or cotton swabs inside the ear canal.
Lightly thinning ear hair, when appropriate, to improve airflow rather than completely removing every hair.
Keeping water out of the ear during bathing by gently closing the ear flap and, when appropriate, using cotton for protection.

Additional recommendations often include:

Protecting floppy ears during bathing and drying to reduce trapped moisture.
Thoroughly drying the ears after the bath, since excess moisture creates an ideal environment for bacteria and yeast.
Using a gentle astringent cleaner to dry out any additional moisture

Groomers Aren't Trying to Be Veterinarians

Professional groomers care deeply about ear health, but they're not veterinarians and shouldn't be expected to perform medical procedures or diagnose ear disease.

What groomers do exceptionally well is:

Helping prevent water from entering the ears during bathing.
Using appropriate ear cleaning products during routine grooming.
Following safe, consistent grooming protocols designed to maintain cleanliness without venturing into medical treatment.

Think of groomers as helping maintain healthy ears, not treating unhealthy ones or being responsible for them.

Groomer-Style Ear Care at Home

If you want to perform routine ear maintenance between grooming appointments, keep it simple.

Use a veterinarian or groomer approved ear cleaner or plain witch hazel if appropriate for your pet.
Apply the cleaner to a cotton ball or soft wipe rather than directly into the ear.
Clean only the visible outer portion of the ear.
Never insert cotton swabs or other objects deep into the ear canal.
Dry the ear thoroughly after cleaning.
If you notice redness, swelling, discharge, a foul odor, pain, or excessive scratching, stop cleaning and schedule a veterinary examination.

If your breed commonly grows dense ear hair, gentle thinning with your fingers may help improve airflow. Avoid excessive pulling, and if you're unsure whether your dog should have ear hair removed, ask your groomer or veterinarian.

Pet Parents Need to Maintain Ear Hair Too

One thing that seems to get lost in all the arguments about whether groomers or veterinarians should be plucking ears is that ultimately, neither one is responsible for maintaining the amount of hair growing in your dog's ears between appointments. You are. If you have a dog that grows a lot of hair inside the ears, checking that hair should be part of your normal maintenance at home.

Large amounts of ear hair should not be pulled all at once. Removing too much hair at one time can irritate the ear canal, which is exactly what we're trying to avoid. Instead of allowing the ears to become packed with hair and expecting a groomer or veterinarian to remove all of it during one visit, the hair should be maintained gradually so there is enough room for air to circulate and dirt and debris to work their way out.

Check your dog's ears every week or two. If the opening is starting to look particularly hairy, you don't need hemostats, ear powder or any special grooming tools to do a little maintenance. Take a few of the hairs growing from directly inside the ear between your fingers and just give them one quick, gentle tug. Hair growing inside the ear frequently releases very easily when it hasn't been allowed to become excessive. It should not require repeated pulling or a struggle with your dog. If the hair doesn't come out easily, leave it alone.

Make sure you are actually grabbing hair growing from inside the ear and not the regular coat growing on the skin surrounding the opening. That surrounding hair is attached just like the hair everywhere else on your dog, and yes, pulling it hurts. We are talking about removing a few easily released hairs from inside the ear when they start becoming excessive, not grabbing a handful of whatever happens to be nearby and giving it a yank.

The goal isn't to make the ear bald. Some dogs naturally grow much more ear hair than others, and some need very little maintenance at all. The goal is simply to check your dog's ears regularly and keep excessive hair from building up in the first place. A few seconds every week or two can prevent the situation where a large amount has accumulated and somebody is then expected to unpleasantly remove it all at once. which as we've discussed can be a problem in itself.

Your groomer will very likely happily demonstrate this if you have questions or need a little help at first.

For problem ears, I absolutely love ZYMOX Enzymatic Ear Solution. It’s incredibly easy to use and unbelievably effective for pesky ear problems. It has anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, works WITH whatever is in the ears so there is no extra daily cleaning and fuss necessary and also works great as a weekly or bi-weekly preventative.

Breeds That Commonly Benefit From Ear Hair Maintenance

Some breeds naturally grow more hair inside the ears or have floppy ears that reduce airflow.

These often include:

Cocker Spaniel
Bichon Frise
Poodle (Toy, Miniature, and Standard)
Schnauzer
Shih Tzu
Lhasa Apso
Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
Golden Retriever
Cockapoos, Labradoodles, and many other Doodle mixes
West Highland White Terrier

Every dog is different, so ear maintenance should always be based on the individual dog's needs rather than breed alone.

Final Thoughts

Good ear care doesn't require drama. Groomers and veterinarians each play different but equally important roles in keeping your dog's ears healthy.

Routine grooming helps maintain cleanliness and reduce moisture buildup, while veterinarians diagnose and treat medical ear conditions.

When each professional stays within their area of expertise and pet owners understand the difference, everyone benefits, especially the dog.

Does Grooming Help With Shedding? Absolutely and Here's Why

Mon, 25 Aug 2025 22:40:52 GMT

Does Grooming Help With Shedding? Absolutely, and Here's Why

Huskies and German Shepherds are just two breeds that benefit greatly from regular de-shedding treatments by a professional groomer.

Let's get real. Shedding is simply part of life when you share your home with a dog. No matter how fluffy or sleek your pup is, you'll eventually find fur on your furniture, your clothes, and somehow even in places that seem impossible. The good news? Professional grooming can make a noticeable difference. Not only can it help reduce the amount of loose hair around your home, but it also helps keep your dog's coat and skin healthier.

Professional Grooming Removes Loose Undercoat

A professional de-shedding treatment does much more than make your dog look nice. It removes loose undercoat and dead hair before it has a chance to end up on your floors or furniture. Excess undercoat can trap heat , contribute to matting, and make it more difficult for air to circulate through the coat.

Professional groomers use techniques and tools designed to remove loose coat safely while maintaining the integrity of your dog's natural coat.

Why Bathing Alone Isn't Enough

Many pet owners believe frequent baths with a de-shedding shampoo will solve the problem. Unfortunately, that's rarely the case.

Bathing too often can dry the skin, strip away natural oils, and contribute to brittle hair and coat damage. Even shampoos marketed for de-shedding aren't miracle products. They can certainly help loosen dead hair, but they can't replace proper brushing, drying, and coat maintenance performed by an experienced groomer.

Professional Groomers Use the Right Tools

Every coat is different.

An experienced groomer evaluates the breed, coat type, coat density, and skin condition before selecting the appropriate grooming tools. Removing loose coat safely requires far more than simply brushing harder or using the sharpest de-shedding tool available.

In fact, many aggressive de-shedding tools can scratch or irritate the skin when used incorrectly. Professional groomers understand how much coat should be removed and which tools are appropriate for each individual dog .

Breeds That Benefit From Professional De-Shedding

Almost every shedding breed can benefit from routine grooming, but some see especially dramatic results.

Examples include:

Golden Retriever
Siberian Husky
German Shepherd
Labrador Retriever
Australian Shepherd
Chihuahua
Samoyed
Pomeranian
Many Terrier breeds and mixes
Border Collie

Each of these breeds has a different coat type, which is exactly why professional grooming isn't a one-size-fits-all service. The techniques used on a Husky aren't the same ones used on a Labrador or Chihuahua.

Home Maintenance Still Matters

Professional grooming is only part of the equation.

Regular brushing at home helps remove loose hair before it accumulates throughout your house while reducing tangles and helping maintain the coat between grooming appointments. Just remember that brushing aggressively or using the wrong tools can damage both the coat and the skin.

Nutrition also plays an important role. A balanced diet with adequate protein and essential fatty acids helps support healthy skin and coat condition from the inside out. Healthy skin produces healthier hair, and healthier hair generally sheds more naturally.

Can Grooming Stop Shedding Completely?

No.

Every dog sheds to some degree, and no groomer can promise a completely shed-free dog. Genetics, breed, season, age, and overall health all influence how much a dog sheds.

What professional grooming can do is dramatically reduce the amount of loose hair ready to fall out, improve coat condition, and make shedding much easier to manage.

The Bottom Line

Professional grooming absolutely helps with shedding. While it won't eliminate shedding entirely, it can significantly reduce loose hair throughout your home while keeping your dog's coat healthier and more comfortable.

Combine regular professional grooming with gentle brushing at home, proper nutrition, and the right grooming tools, and you'll notice a cleaner home, a healthier coat, and a happier dog.

Why Vets And Groomers Should Stay In Their Own Lanes

Sun, 24 Aug 2025 22:29:11 GMT

Stay in Your Lane: Why Veterinarians and Groomers Have Different Jobs

When it comes to caring for your dog, veterinarians and professional groomers each play an important role. The problem begins when one profession starts giving advice that falls squarely into the other's area of expertise. Whether it's a veterinarian critiquing grooming techniques or a groomer trying to diagnose a medical condition, the lines can become blurred, leaving pet owners confused about who they should trust.

The reality is simple: veterinarians and groomers are both highly trained professionals, but they're trained for very different purposes. Their knowledge overlaps in a few areas, but neither profession replaces the other.

When Grooming Advice Comes From the Exam Room

Veterinarians are experts in medicine. They diagnose disease, perform surgery, prescribe medication, and help keep pets healthy throughout their lives. Grooming, however, is not a major part of veterinary education beyond basic coat and hygiene maintenance.

Because of that, it's not uncommon for a veterinarian to recommend that a Poodle always be kept short, suggest that eyelashes should never be trimmed, or offer opinions about ear plucking or coat maintenance that differ from the methods used by experienced groomers.

That doesn't necessarily mean the veterinarian is wrong. It simply means they're offering an opinion from outside their primary field of expertise.

Professional groomers spend years learning coat types, breed standards, skin and coat handling, proper grooming techniques, and how different grooming methods affect different breeds. Those skills are developed through daily hands-on experience rather than medical training.

Sometimes that difference in perspective creates difficult conversations with pet owners. A groomer may recommend shaving a severely matted dog for comfort and welfare, while an owner has been told elsewhere that the coat should never be clipped short. In situations like these, the groomer has to balance the owner's expectations with what's actually best for the dog standing on the table .

Groomers Shouldn't Practice Veterinary Medicine Either

The opposite happens just as often. Many pet owners ask groomers questions that really belong in a veterinary exam room.

"What do you think this lump is?"

"Can you tell if this is cancer?"

"Should I put something on this sore?"

Experienced groomers notice an incredible amount because they spend hours physically handling dogs. They frequently discover lumps, skin growths, parasites, ear problems, dental issues, or changes in a dog's condition long before the owner notices them.

Recognizing something unusual, however, is very different from diagnosing it or knowing how to treat it.

A responsible groomer knows where that line is. They'll point out a concern, recommend that you schedule a veterinary appointment, and allow your veterinarian to determine what's actually going on.

Different Professions, Different Expertise

Neither profession is more important than the other. They're simply different.

Professional groomers develop expertise over years in coat care, breed-specific grooming, handling difficult pets, hand stripping, scissoring techniques, de-shedding, skin and coat maintenance, and keeping dogs comfortable between veterinary visits.

Veterinarians dedicate years to learning anatomy, physiology, disease, diagnostics, surgery, pharmacology, and emergency medicine.

Those are completely different careers requiring completely different training.

When Conflicting Advice Leaves Owners Stuck

Unfortunately, pet owners are often caught in the middle.

Imagine a heavily matted Pomeranian whose veterinarian previously advised against shaving because of possible coat regrowth concerns. The groomer now has a dog whose coat is tightly felted against the skin and causing discomfort. In many cases, shaving becomes the kindest and safest option despite the conflicting advice.

Or imagine a groomer discovering an unusual lump during a routine appointment and recommending that the owner schedule a veterinary examination. The groomer isn't making a diagnosis, they're simply recognizing that something deserves medical attention.

These situations happen every day, and they demonstrate why each profession works best when it stays within its own area of expertise .

The Bottom Line

Veterinarians shouldn't be expected to function as professional groomers, and groomers shouldn't attempt to practice veterinary medicine. Each profession brings valuable knowledge to your dog's care, but that knowledge isn't interchangeable.

Your veterinarian is your dog's medical expert.

Your groomer is your dog's grooming and coat care expert .

When both professionals respect each other's training and pet owners understand the difference, everyone benefits—especially the dog.

The healthiest, happiest dogs usually have both an excellent veterinarian and an experienced groomer working together, each doing what they were trained to do best.

Why Do Groomers Cut Dog Eyelashes? What Pet Parents Should Know

Sat, 23 Aug 2025 21:39:39 GMT

Why Do Groomers Cut Dog Eyelashes? What Pet Parents Should Know

Las Vegas pet grooming answers the question: Is it okay for dog groomers to cut eyelashes?

If you've ever picked up your freshly groomed pup and noticed their long, fluttery eyelashes missing, you're not alone. Many dog owners are surprised and sometimes a little upset to learn that their groomer trimmed their pet's lashes. The truth is, trimming a dog's eyelashes isn't about style. It's about eye health, safety, and practicality.

Why Groomers Trim Eyelashes

Professional groomers are trained to prioritize a dog's comfort and well-being. Long eyelashes can:

Irritate the eyes by rubbing against the surface of the eye or eyelid.
Trap dirt, dust, tear debris, and other particles that may contribute to irritation or infection.
Obstruct vision when they become excessively long or curl into the dog's line of sight.
Cause discomfort, leading some dogs to paw at or rub their eyes.

Because of these risks, groomers may trim eyelashes to help protect eye health rather than simply for appearance.

Why It Happens So Easily During Grooming

Even when eyelashes aren't causing irritation, they're surprisingly easy to trim during a grooming appointment. Here's why:

Eyelashes sit directly in line with the hair around the eyes. When groomers carefully trim the face, the lashes are often in the path of the scissors.
Standard facial grooming involves clearing excess hair from around the eyes to improve visibility and comfort. During that process, eyelashes may also be trimmed.
Some breeds naturally grow eyelashes that blend into the surrounding facial hair, making them difficult to distinguish during grooming.
Dogs move. Even experienced groomers working carefully can accidentally shorten eyelashes when the client suddenly turns or jerks.

In short, even if your dog's eyelashes weren't causing a problem, trimming them is often a natural part of safely grooming the face.

Do Dog Eyelashes Grow Back?

Yes. Just like the rest of your dog's coat, eyelashes grow back naturally. In most dogs, they begin returning within a few weeks and continue growing over the next couple of months.

Some dogs also rub or wear down their own eyelashes when they become irritating, so it's not unusual for lash length to vary between grooming appointments. Groomers are frequently asked to leave the lashes only to find... they aren't there before we even do anything. Most likely the dog has rubbed them off themselves.

The Bottom Line

If your groomer trims your dog's eyelashes, it isn't always a mistake though that definitely happens too. It's often done to improve comfort, visibility, and eye health while safely grooming the face. Although long eyelashes may look adorable, they can also contribute to irritation, eye injury, collect debris, or interfere with vision. Since they grow back naturally, trimming them is generally a temporary part of routine grooming.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it okay for groomers to cut eyelashes?

Yes. It's actually preferable in many cases. Trimming eyelashes is considered safe and is commonly done to improve comfort and maintain a clear area around the eyes for eye health.

Are pet groomers supposed to cut eyelashes?

Many groomers do. Eyelashes are often trimmed while grooming around the eyes, although individual groomers may have different preferences and grooming styles.

Can cutting off eyelashes hurt my dog?

No. Trimming eyelashes is painless and does not harm your dog. And they grow right back like everything else.

Will my dog's eyelashes grow back?

Yes. In most cases, they grow back within a few weeks to a couple of months.

Can long eyelashes hurt my dog?

Yes. If they curl inward or rub against the eye, they can cause irritation, injury, excessive tearing, discomfort, or even scratches to the surface of the eye. They can also interfere with vision. Dogs frequently rub them off of their own accord without the aid of a groomer because they are bothering them.

Do dog eyelashes protect their eyes?

Yes. They help keep dust and debris away from the eyes. However, when they become excessively long or curl inward, they can do more harm than good.

Should I cut my dog's eyelashes at home?

It's generally best left to a professional groomer, as trimming around the eyes carries a high risk of accidental injury.

Do all dogs have eyelashes?

Yes. Some breeds naturally have short, barely noticeable eyelashes, while others develop long, dramatic lashes.

Which breeds have the longest eyelashes?

Breeds such as Poodles, Shih Tzus, Cocker Spaniels, Maltese, and many Doodle mixes are well known for having longer eyelashes.

Why did my groomer cut my dog's eyelashes without asking?

Removing eyelashes that may irritate or harm the dogs eye is a PART of standard, regular grooming. Many owners are also not aware that their pup has rubbed off their lashes on their own before they even arrived at the grooming shop. But even when we WANT to leave them accidents can happen. It often happens as part of safely grooming around the eyes. Eyelashes can blend into the surrounding facial hair and every groomer develops their own techniques and preferences through training and experience.

Take your comb or brush. Brush the hair in the front of your pups head completely forward. now imagine removing that WHILE trying to find, keep separate and miss eyelashes that are all twined up in there.... hmmm. Oh, and they move. FAST

If keeping your dog's eyelashes is important to you, mention it during your grooming consultation, and many groomers will do their absolute best to preserve them for you when possible if the pup will remain comfortable.

Can long eyelashes cause eye infections?

Long eyelashes themselves don't cause infections, but eyelashes that constantly rub the eye or trap debris may contribute to irritation, corneal abrasions, or conditions that increase the risk of infection.

Do dogs need eyelash extensions or eyelash styling?

No. While some owners enjoy the appearance of long eyelashes, dogs don't need cosmetic eyelash styling. Their comfort, vision, and eye health should ALWAYS come first.

Remember, professional dog grooming isn't about following human beauty trends. First and foremost, it's about keeping your dog healthy, comfortable, and safe. Looking adorable is simply an added bonus.

Products We Love - The Furminator De-shedding Rake

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 21:28:06 GMT

Why We Always Reach for the Furminator Grooming Rake for De-Shedding

When it comes to professional-grade grooming tools that work just as well at home, the Furminator Grooming Rake is always at the top of our list. Whether we're working in the salon or helping pet parents manage shedding at home, this tool continues to prove itself as one of the best for both effectiveness and safety.

Gentle Yet Effective Design

Unlike some de-shedding tools with exposed blades, the Furminator Grooming Rake is designed with rotating metal teeth that gently work through thick coats without scratching or irritating the skin. That means no painful tugging and no risk of accidental nicks, making it one of the best de-shedding tools for double-coated dogs and a safe choice for pet parents who may not have professional grooming training.

Built for Double-Coated Breeds

This grooming rake shines on breeds with dense undercoats. It removes loose fur before it turns into mats, helps regulate body temperature , and keeps coats healthier overall.

We love using it on:

German Shepherds
Huskies
Pomeranians

These breeds shed heavily, and the rake works through their coats in a way that's comfortable for the dog and efficient for the groomer.

Other Breeds That Benefit from the Furminator Grooming Rake

Of course, those aren't the only dogs that need extra help with shedding. The Furminator Grooming Rake is also perfect for many other coated breeds, especially those with heavy shedding cycles or thick double coats. Some of our top picks include:

Golden Retrievers – Long coats that shed constantly benefit from regular raking.
Collies (Rough & Smooth) – Their dense coats can mat without consistent undercoat care.
Samoyeds – Known for their fluffy white fur, they shed heavily during seasonal coat blows.
Bernese Mountain Dogs – Thick coats stay healthier with routine de-shedding.
Chow Chows – Their lion-like mane can quickly become compacted without proper grooming.
Australian Shepherds – Medium double coats that surprise many owners with how much they shed.
Alaskan Malamutes – Even more coat than Huskies, making this rake a lifesaver during coat blows.
Great Pyrenees – Massive double coats stay healthier with consistent undercoat removal.
Newfoundlands – Water-resistant coats benefit from removing loose undercoat to reduce bulk and shedding.
Pembroke Welsh Corgis and Cardigan Welsh Corgis – Small dogs with surprisingly heavy year-round shedding.

Regular use of this tool helps pet parents reduce shedding at home, keeps coats healthier, and helps prevent matting. It's an easy way to achieve professional-looking grooming results without the risks that come with sharp-bladed tools. One of the reasons we recommend it is because it doesn't rely on exposed blades that are as likely to cause abrasions, nicks, or cuts when used by someone without professional grooming experience. However be aware these are always possible when brushing an area for long periods or with a heavier hand.

Comfort and Durability

The Furminator Grooming Rake is built to last, with a sturdy, ergonomic handle that makes longer grooming sessions more comfortable. Whether you're brushing out a large Husky or tackling the thick coat of a Samoyed, this tool provides the control and durability needed to get the job done efficiently.

Final Thoughts

Shedding is part of life with a double-coated dog, but with the right tool, it doesn't have to take over your home. The Furminator Grooming Rake remains one of our favorite recommendations because it's safer, effective, trusted by professional groomers , and simple enough for pet parents to use confidently at home.

Grab Yours on Amazon

Ready to try it for your pup? Check out the Furminator Grooming Rake on Amazon.

How often should you bathe short haired dogs?

Thu, 21 Aug 2025 20:57:26 GMT

How Often Should Short-Haired Dogs Be Groomed? A Guide for Chihuahuas, Bulldogs, Pit Bulls, Boxers, and More

Why Regular Grooming Still Matters

When people think of dog grooming, they often imagine fluffy breeds with thick coats that require regular trimming. But short, flat-coated breeds such as the Chihuahua, French Bulldog, Pit Bull, Boxer, Boston Terrier, and Pug also benefit from consistent grooming even if they don’t need haircuts. Grooming these dogs on the right schedule is essential for their health, comfort, and reducing shedding.

Why Grooming Matters for Short Coated Dogs

Even though breeds like the Dachshund, Pug, Pit Bull, and Boxer have sleek coats, they still shed. Regular grooming removes loose fur, dirt, and dander while also improving circulation and helping keep the skin healthy. It also includes routine ear wiping to help reduce wax and debris buildup and regular nail trimming to keep the feet functioning properly.

When nails become too long, they force a dog's toes to spread and change the way the foot contacts the ground. Over time, this unnatural stance can place extra stress on the feet, wrists, legs, shoulders, and even the spine, leading to discomfort and affecting the way a dog walks. They may also possibly start to grow into the dog's pads or skin. Keeping the nails properly maintained helps support normal movement and overall comfort while keeping your dog looking, feeling, and smelling fresh.

How Often Should You Groom These Breeds?

A full bath and brush every 4–12 weeks is usually ideal for Chihuahuas, French Bulldogs, Pit Bulls, and Boxers. This schedule helps keep shedding under control without drying out the skin.

Brushing once or twice a week at home with a rubber curry brush or grooming glove can help keep the coat shiny and minimize loose fur around the house.

Grooming too often, such as weekly baths, can actually cause dry, itchy skin and strip away the natural oils that protect the coat.

A good rule of thumb is if you can hear those toes tippy tapping on the floor as you walk along it's probably time for a spa day.

What Should Grooming Include?

When you take a Chihuahua, French Bulldog, Pit Bull, or Boxer to a professional groomer, you can expect more than just a bath. A well-rounded grooming appointment usually includes:

Bath with a gentle shampoo and conditioner
Thorough brushing and de-shed to remove loose fur
Nail trimming (important for comfort and posture)
Ear cleaning to help prevent infections
Paw pad and sanitary care, if needed
Some groomers check anal glands, but not in the same internal manner as a veterinarian.

Groomer vs. Veterinarian for Routine Maintenance

Many pet parents make special trips to the veterinarian just for nail trims or ear cleaning. However, in most cases, a professional dog groomer can provide the same basic maintenance for a Bulldog, Chihuahua, Rat Terrier, Boston Terrier, or Boxer at a lower cost. Your dog also gets the added benefit of a bath and brush during the same visit.

The Bottom Line

Even though breeds like Pugs, Jack Russell Terriers, Dachshunds, Miniature Pinschers, and Chihuahuas don't need fancy haircuts, they still thrive on regular grooming. Aim for a bath and brush every 4–8 weeks, with at home brushing in between appointments. You'll enjoy a cleaner home with less shedding, and your pup will be healthier, happier, and more comfortable.

Some examples of short, flat-coated breeds that may benefit from visiting your groomer instead of your veterinarian the next time they need a nail trim include:

Chihuahua
Dachshund
Pug
Beagle
Boston Terrier
Miniature Pinscher
Pit Bull
Boxer
Bulldog
American Bully
French Bulldog
Jack Russell Terrier
Rat Terrier
Weimaraner
German Shorthaired Pointer
Vizsla
Great Dane
Basenji
Italian Greyhound
American Staffordshire Terrier
Dalmatian

For affordable, quality and loving grooming for your flat coated pup in Las Vegas give Leashes pet Salon a call.

How to Tell the Groomer What Haircut or Services You Would Like

Wed, 20 Aug 2025 20:16:44 GMT

How to Tell Your Groomer What You Want

When you bring your dog to the groomer, it's completely normal to feel unsure about how to explain the haircut or services you want. In the grooming world, this conversation is called a consultation. A consultation isn't just about you choosing a haircut or placing an order like your groomer is at a fast food or coffee counter. It's a chance for your groomer to learn about your dog, your preferences, your lifestyle, and the amount of coat maintenance you're willing or able to do at home. All of those things help the groomer determine the details and which haircut will work best for both you and your pup.

It's important to remember that you're responsible for keeping your dog's coat in good condition between grooming appointments. It is not up to your groomer and not typically included in the base service cost or the usual appointment time for your groomer to spend more than a reasonable 20 minutes or so doing any detangling or de-matting. The haircut you hope for only works if the coat is properly brushed and maintained at home and your pet is tolerant of the process. Your groomer will do their best to match your vision, but your dog's coat condition, structure, lifestyle, and your home maintenance routine all play a huge role in the final result.

The absolute truth of the industry is that slang and grooming terms regarding styles, lengths and just about everything is regional, situational, and shifts from shop to shop , it is not an industry wide standard. So, stating what your groomer in a past shop called the cut they did may not get you the same result in a different shop down the street if you just rattle it off. The details matter. But don't worry, we don't expect you to be rattling off blade lengths, specific styles or anything like that and we don't need you to detail every bit of the haircut or become groomers to explain to us.

Keep It Simple

When describing the length you want, simple words usually work best. Instead of trying to use grooming terminology, tell your groomer things like: Short, Medium Long, Short but no skin, short but still a little fluffy, all the same length nose to tail, try to keep the ears out of the water bowl etc. Trying to sound like a groomer often creates more misunderstanding than it helps. Especially since we don’t even use the same terms for the same things from shop to shop.

Using your fingers to show us an approximate length of how much you'd like left can also work. Just remember it's what you'd like left, not what you'd like taken off that you're demonstrating.

For example, saying, "Take an inch off," doesn't tell your groomer what length you actually want your dog to be. Grooming lengths are measured by the amount of coat left on the dog, not by how much is removed as might happen with humans. Saying, "I'd like about a half inch left," or "I want him nice and fluffy at an inch," gives your groomer a much clearer picture after a few clarifying questions.

Tell Us About Your Lifestyle

Your dog's lifestyle matters just as much as the haircut itself. Does your dog: Swim regularly? Hike or camp with you? Spend time at the dog park? Wear sweaters or harnesses often? Love rolling in the grass or mud? These things affect how practical certain haircuts will be. A beautiful long coat may look amazing, but it also requires much more brushing if your dog is constantly outdoors or getting wet and long may not be the best option for an active pet or swimmer.

Be Honest About Brushing

One of the most helpful things you can tell your groomer is how often you realistically brush your dog. Not how often you plan to brush. Not how often you wish you brushed. How often you actually do it.

There isn't a right or wrong answer. We aren't judging you. We're simply trying to recommend a haircut that fits your maintenance and lifestyle instead of one that becomes matted before your next appointment. If you hate brushing, tell us. We'd much rather give your dog a cute, easy to maintain haircut than see them uncomfortable in between grooms because the coat couldn't be maintained.

And while an inch of hair left may not SOUND like much it is actually much longer than most pet parents can consistently maintain without matting. Playing the 'grow it out and then shave it down game' is not really fair to your pet who is the one getting matted in between that last tidy and the shave down visit. It's best to find the consistent length you can maintain in between haircuts without your pup getting tangled in between.

Also... we know the difference. We know when you THINK you're brushing and combing properly but aren't. We know when you aren't brushing the ENTIRE dog. We know when you haven't brushed your dog for months. We know when you bathe your dog and don't brush or dry it properly. We know when your pup wears sweaters. We know that didn't just take a week. Each of those situations has different patterns that WE see every day, so honesty is always the best policy.

We don't judge you. Let’s face it, life happens and not everyone has an hour or three a day to comb out every square inch of their dog. It just helps us help your pup. We also don't mind giving tips on brushing, combing, maintenance, and bathing.

Tell Us What You Love

If there are certain features you absolutely love, let your groomer know. Maybe you love: A round teddy bear face. Long eyelashes . A fluffy as possible tail. Long ears. Short ears, Clean (shaved) feet, A fuller beard or face Those details help your groomer prioritize the features that matter most to you if we can.

Tell Us What You've Hated

If there were things past groomers did that you hated you can tell us that too. While there may be reasons things are or are not done that may not make it YOUR perfect haircut we're usually pretty happy to help you and your pup meet in the middle if needed.

Pictures Can Help OR HURT

Pictures are one of the best communication tools you can bring to a grooming appointment. The best photos are actually of your own dog after a previous haircut you loved. Even your dog after a haircut you absolutely hated so you can tell us why. If you don't have those, choose pictures of dogs with a similar breed, coat type, coat condition, and body structure. A photo of a perfectly groomed social media dog may not be realistic if your dog has a completely different coat and body and temperament. We can't turn your Lhasa Apso into a Schnauzer or create coat or structural foundation that just isn't there. Just because two dogs are the same breed does not mean they are the same dog and we can make your pup look just like another. Let us find ways to make your pup shine as their own beautiful self if we need to.

Don't Worry About Knowing Grooming Terms

Every groomer has their own style, preferences, techniques, and shop policies, so never assume everyone uses the same terminology. In fact, trying to speak "groomer" can sometimes create more confusion than simply describing what you want. Instead of saying things like, "Scissor the feet," “scissor the sani” or requesting a specific blade length you've heard online, tell your groomer the result you're hoping for in simple human terms, with your fingers, with appropriate pictures. That tells us far more than trying to direct the technical side of the groom which is what WE trained to do. We will follow up with questions that help us understand and clarify.

A Word About Haircut Names

Terms like " puppy cut ," " teddy bear cut ," and even "breed cut" (do you mean one from today or the one from 10 years ago or the asian fusian style or the latest AI error that has suddenly become a trend and folks think is a breed cut) don’t actually always mean much of anything at all or have specific details attached to them that describe a whole haircut and can mean different things to different groomers and owners alike. If you use one of those terms be ready to follow it up with a description or a photo and answer a few questions so everyone is picturing the same haircut. We're not psychic and we can't see the picture in your head and the pup doesn't usually much care what EITHER of us have to say about it and has their own ideas.

Matting Changes Everything

If your dog's coat is matted, your groomer may not be able to safely achieve the style you requested. Matting often limits the haircut options because brushing out severe tangles can be painful and may even injure the skin. Sometimes the kindest and safest choice is a shorter haircut that allows the coat to grow back healthy. Your groomer isn't trying to disappoint you. They're putting your dog's comfort and safety first.

Think of It as a Conversation Because That’s What it Is

The best grooming appointments start with good communication. Think of the consultation as a discussion, not placing an order. Your groomer can't see the picture in your head, but they can help you choose a style that fits your dog's coat, your lifestyle, and the amount of maintenance you're comfortable doing at home. If the first haircut isn't exactly what you envisioned, that's okay. Adjustments can almost always be made at the next appointment, and dog hair grows back much faster than ours. Regular grooming every 4 to 10 weeks gives you and your groomer the opportunity to fine-tune the perfect look over time.

Hopefully we've eased some common issues that lead to misunderstandings between groomers and customers and your next appointment goes MUCH more smoothly

Summer Grooming Tips for Coated Dog Breeds: Why De-Shedding Beats Shaving

Tue, 19 Aug 2025 16:55:03 GMT

Why Shaving Your Coated Dog Isn't the Best Option And Doesn't Keep Them Cooler

1. Double Coats Are Designed to Protect

A double coat isn't just there to keep a dog warm during the winter. The dense undercoat and protective guard hairs work together to help regulate body temperature while shielding the skin from direct sunlight, insect bites, and everyday environmental hazards.

Removing the guard coat through shaving takes away much of that natural protection and leaves the skin far more vulnerable to sunburn and irritation.

2. Coat Regrowth Problems

One of the biggest problems groomers see after shaving a double-coated breed is poor coat regrowth.

The soft undercoat often grows back much faster than the protective guard hairs. The result can be a coat that grows in unevenly, feels coarse or woolly, mats more easily, and may never return to its original texture. Some dogs experience permanent coat damage, especially after repeated shaving. Poor regrowth can also be a sign of a health issue affecting hair growth. It is not uncommon for a dog to look normal after shaving years but then it grows back poor and patchy. This should be taken as a sign to investigate any underlying health issues which may be the main cause.

3. Shaving Doesn't Fix the Real Problem

Many owners believe shaving will make a thick-coated dog cooler because there's "less hair."

In reality, what's making many of these dogs uncomfortable isn't the length of the coat. It's the loose, impacted undercoat trapped underneath.

A thorough de-shedding treatment removes that dead undercoat while leaving the protective outer coat intact. This allows better airflow through the coat without sacrificing its natural protection.

Let me also break down why people think shaving reduces shedding.

In order to shave a dog the undercoat is removed. The shedding continues. The higher shed rate resumes at the same time as the hair grows back whether or not the pet was shaved. So... grooming is needed at again ON THE SAME SCHEDULE whether the pet is shaved or a bath and de-shed service was performed. The de-shed is just the better, healthier, more comfortable option for the pet and coat integrity in MOST cases. On much rarer occasions shaving may be determined to be the best option due to impacted matted coat or some health issues but never to keep a dog cooler.

The Better Solution: Regular De-Shedding

1. Use the Right Tool

Removing loose undercoat requires more than a quick brush.

Undercoat rakes , slicker brushes, high-velocity dryers, shedding tools, and other professional grooming equipment are designed to remove dead undercoat without damaging the healthy guard hairs.

Using the wrong tool or brushing too aggressively can damage the coat just as easily as shaving.

2. Technique Matters

Proper de-shedding isn't simply brushing the top of the coat.

Working in small sections from the skin outward allows loose undercoat to be removed without unnecessarily pulling healthy coat. Even weekly maintenance at home can dramatically reduce shedding, improve airflow, and help prevent impacted undercoat.

3. Beat the Heat, Not the Fur

Removing loose undercoat allows air to circulate closer to the skin while preserving the coat's natural protection from the summer sun.

Regular brushing also removes dirt, loose hair, and debris while helping distribute natural skin oils throughout the coat.

For most healthy double-coated breeds, that's exactly what they need during the hottest months of the year, not a shave.

Examples of Summer Grooming for Popular Double-Coated Breeds

-German Shepherds: Regular de-shedding is one of the best things you can do for a German Shepherd during the summer. Their dense undercoat sheds heavily, and removing that loose hair helps keep the coat lighter and more comfortable without sacrificing the protective guard hairs.

-Border Collies: Border Collies benefit from routine de-shedding to remove loose undercoat while preserving their beautiful outer coat. Shaving can interfere with the coat's natural protection and may result in uneven regrowth.

-Australian Shepherds: Australian Shepherds experience heavy seasonal coat blow-outs. Regular brushing and professional de-shedding treatments help remove dead undercoat far more effectively than clippers ever will.

-Golden Retrievers: Goldens are famous for shedding, especially during seasonal coat changes. A thorough de-shedding treatment helps remove loose undercoat, improves coat condition, and can significantly reduce the amount of hair left around your home.

-Labrador Retrievers: Many owners don't realize Labradors have a dense double coat. Professional de-shedding removes the loose undercoat while preserving the healthy outer coat that helps protect the skin.

-Siberian Huskies: Huskies naturally "blow" their undercoat, often releasing handfuls of fur during shedding season. Professional de-shedding is designed for exactly this purpose. Shaving usually creates more problems than it solves.

-Shetland Sheepdogs (Shelties): Their beautiful double coat requires regular brushing and de-shedding to prevent impacted undercoat. Shaving removes the protective guard hairs and exposes the skin to unnecessary sun and environmental damage.

Bonus Tips for a Cool, Comfortable Summer

Keep Fresh Water Available

Regular grooming helps your dog stay comfortable, but it doesn't replace the basics. Always provide plenty of cool, fresh water.

Provide Shade

If your dog spends time outdoors, make sure they always have access to shade or a cool place to escape the sun.

Know When to Stay Inside

During extreme heat, limit walks and outdoor activities to the early morning or evening hours. Hot pavement can burn paw pads in seconds, and heat stroke can develop quickly. It can also blister and burn exposed pads.

Watch for Skin Problems

If your dog's shedding seems excessive, patchy, or is accompanied by redness, odor, hair loss, or irritation, schedule a visit with your veterinarian. Underlying skin conditions, allergies, or parasites may require medical treatment rather than grooming alone.

Grooming Is More Than Looking Good

Regular brushing and professional grooming aren't just cosmetic. They help remove loose undercoat, prevent mats, improve coat condition, reduce shedding around the house, and give your groomer the opportunity to spot potential skin or coat problems before they become more serious.

Bottom Line

For double-coated breeds like German Shepherds, Border Collies, Australian Shepherds, Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers, Siberian Huskies, and Shelties, shaving may seem like the logical solution to summer heat, but it usually creates more problems than it solves. And it most definitely does not keep them cooler, it removes their built in cool off protection instead.

A thorough de-shedding treatment removes the loose undercoat that's no longer serving your dog while preserving the protective guard hairs that nature designed for the job.

If you're trying to help your dog stay cooler this summer, skip the shave and invest in regular brushing and professional de-shedding instead. Your dog's coat, skin, and overall comfort will thank you.

Dog Breed Spotlight - The Giant Schnauzer

Mon, 18 Aug 2025 09:13:40 GMT

Giant Schnauzer: A Majestic Guardian for the Dedicated Owner

The Giant Schnauzer is a breed that commands attention with its imposing stature, dignified presence, and unwavering loyalty. Originally bred in Germany for herding livestock and guarding property, this noble working dog thrives in active households with owners who can meet its physical, mental, training and grooming needs. While they can be incredible companions, great guard dogs and protectors they are not a breed for everyone and are generally not recommended for first time or inexperienced dog owners.

Temperament & Traits

Giant Schnauzers are highly intelligent, alert, confident, and deeply loyal to their families. As members of the Working Group, they thrive when given purposeful tasks and excel in obedience, agility, scent work, protection sports, and other activities that challenge both their minds and bodies.

They are also known for being rowdy, boisterous dogs, especially throughout adolescence. Without plenty of daily exercise, consistent training, and clear boundaries, they can become difficult to manage. It is extremely important that a Giant Schnauzers needs are met as much as the owners or those qualities that make them so great may turn into excess aggression or other behavioral issues.

Because they were bred to guard, Giant Schnauzers have strong protective instincts. Early socialization is essential, and training should begin early and continue throughout their lives. Without proper handling and leadership, some Giant Schnauzers can become overly protective, territorial, or aggressive toward unfamiliar people or animals. A well-trained Giant Schnauzer is a remarkable companion. An untrained one can quickly become overwhelming and pretty scary.

Grooming Needs

Maintaining the Giant Schnauzer's distinctive wiry coat requires regular grooming. Most family pets are clipped for easier maintenance.

Their beard, furnishings, and dense coat require routine brushing to help prevent tangles and mats. Professional grooming is typically recommended every 4 to 8 weeks , depending on coat length and the amount of maintenance performed at home.

Prospective owners should also consider grooming costs before choosing this breed. Giant Schnauzers require considerably more time, labor, shampoo, drying, brushing, clipping, and scissoring than many other breeds. As a result, they are significantly more expensive to groom than smaller Schnauzers and many other family dogs. Grooming is an ongoing commitment that should be factored into the lifetime cost of owning a Giant Schnauzer.

Health Considerations

Like many large breeds, Giant Schnauzers are predisposed to certain inherited health conditions. Hip dysplasia, cataracts, and autoimmune diseases are among the more common concerns seen within the breed. Responsible breeders perform recommended health screenings to help reduce the risk of inherited disease, and prospective owners should always ask about health testing before purchasing a puppy.

Maintaining a healthy weight, feeding a quality diet, providing regular exercise, and scheduling routine veterinary care all contribute to helping Giant Schnauzers live long, healthy lives.

Is a Giant Schnauzer Right for You?

If you're looking for a laid-back dog that's content spending most of the day on the couch, the Giant Schnauzer probably isn't the right fit. These dogs were bred to work and are happiest when they have a job to do. They need daily exercise, mental stimulation, regular grooming, and an owner who is willing to invest the time to train them properly.

For experienced owners who are prepared for the commitment, Giant Schnauzers are loyal, affectionate, and incredibly rewarding companions.

Breeders & Rescue

If you're interested in adding a Giant Schnauzer to your family, take the time to research responsible breeders or consider adoption through a breed-specific rescue.

Breeder Listings

The Giant Schnauzer Club of America maintains a breeder directory featuring breeders who follow ethical breeding practices and recommended health testing.

https://www.giantschnauzerclubofamerica.com/

Rescue Organizations

Adoption is another wonderful option. HT-Z Giant Schnauzer Rescue is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating, and rehoming Giant Schnauzers in need.

https://www.htzrescue.com/

“Why Groomers in the Know Rarely Reach for Oatmeal Shampoo - The Truth Beyond the Hype”

Sun, 17 Aug 2025 09:00:01 GMT

Why Your Groomer May Not Want to Use Or Recommend Oatmeal Shampoo

Oatmeal shampoo is one of the most requested products in pet grooming. Owners often ask for it, bring their own bottle, or specifically instruct the groomer to use it because their dog is itchy.

The problem is that itchy skin does not automatically mean dry skin, and oatmeal shampoo is often the wrong choice.

Many professional groomers do not reach for oatmeal shampoo unless there is a very specific reason to use it. It may temporarily soothe mild dryness, but it is not a treatment for allergies, yeast, bacterial infections, parasites, or other underlying skin problems. In some situations, it may even make the problem worse.

Why Owners Ask for Oatmeal Shampoo

Oatmeal shampoo has been marketed for years as gentle, natural, moisturizing, and soothing. It is inexpensive, easy to find, and commonly associated with sensitive skin.

That reputation has made it the automatic choice for many pet owners. When a dog starts scratching, oatmeal is often the first thing they think of.

Unfortunately, itching is a symptom, not a diagnosis.

A dog may be itchy because of fleas, allergies, yeast, bacteria, parasites, environmental irritation, hormonal problems, or another medical condition. Choosing a shampoo without knowing the cause can delay proper treatment and may leave the dog just as uncomfortable as before.

Why Professional Groomers Often Avoid Oatmeal Shampoo

1. It Can Be a Poor Choice for Yeast

Yeast is a common cause of itchy, greasy, irritated skin. Dogs with yeast may also have a strong odor, darkened skin, recurring ear problems, or a smell owners sometimes describe as corn chips.

Many groomers avoid oatmeal shampoo when yeast is suspected because oatmeal may provide additional nourishment for yeast growth instead of helping control it.

“Oatmeal can actually make a yeast infection worse. If it’s yeast, go tea tree or sulfur.”

A groomer on Reddit

That quote reflects one groomer’s experience, not a recommendation to treat yeast at home. Suspected yeast infections should be evaluated by a veterinarian so the correct treatment can be chosen.

2. It Does Not Treat the Cause of Itching

Oatmeal may temporarily calm irritated skin, but temporary relief is not the same as treatment.

If a dog is scratching because of allergies, infection, parasites, or another medical problem, oatmeal shampoo does not correct the underlying cause. The dog may feel slightly better for a short time while the actual condition continues.

Persistent itching, redness, odor, hair loss, sores, greasy skin, or recurring irritation needs veterinary attention.

3. It Often Does Not Clean as Well - ( yeah, we hate washing dogs and still feeling ick and residue and grease that affect our haircut cause someone else determined the shampoo)

Many groomers find that oatmeal shampoos do not clean as deeply as the professional products they normally use.

Some formulas may leave residue, contribute to buildup, or fail to remove grease, dirt, odor, and product accumulation as effectively as a good cleansing shampoo.

A shampoo that sounds soothing on the label is not necessarily the shampoo that will leave the skin and coat in the best condition.

4. It Is Often Requested by the Owner, Not Chosen by the Groomer

Oatmeal shampoo frequently enters the grooming salon because the owner requested it, not because the groomer believes it is the best product for that dog.

Professional groomers choose shampoos based on coat type, skin condition, cleanliness, odor, grease, buildup, and the results the dog needs.

Another groomer described the frustration this way:

“I throw [oatmeal shampoo] into the routine to humor the parent, it makes no difference and wastes their money and my time.”

A groomer on Reddit

That may sound blunt, but it reflects a common problem. Owners and sometimes even vets sometimes insist on a product because of its reputation, even when the groomer has a more appropriate option available.

5. Specialty Products Can Become Impractical in a Salon

Oatmeal shampoo may not be used often enough in a professional salon to justify keeping it prepared and ready.

Many grooming shampoos are diluted before use. Once mixed, they should not sit indefinitely. A specialty shampoo that is requested only occasionally may lose freshness or quality before the entire mixture is used.

Groomers often prefer dependable professional products they use regularly and know will produce consistent results.

6. Different Skin Problems Require Different Products

There is no single shampoo that is right for every itchy dog.

Some dogs need a deep-cleaning or degreasing shampoo. Others may need a veterinarian-recommended antibacterial, antifungal, medicated, or exfoliating product containing ingredients such as salicylic acid.

Oatmeal is broadly marketed as soothing, but it is not targeted enough for many of the skin conditions groomers regularly see.

Before You Bring Your Own Shampoo

Ask your groomer before bringing a bottle from home or instructing them to use oatmeal shampoo.

Your groomer may already have a professional product that is better suited to your dog’s skin, coat, odor, grease level, or grooming needs.

Bringing your own shampoo may also affect the grooming service. Some salons charge extra for owner-supplied or specialty products, while others prefer not to use outside products at all.

Your groomer is not refusing oatmeal shampoo to be difficult. They may be trying to avoid using a product that cleans poorly, leaves residue, fails to address the real problem, or could make an existing skin condition worse.

What Pet Owners Should Do Instead

If your dog has persistent itching, redness, odor, hair loss, greasy skin, recurring ear trouble, sores, or other ongoing skin problems, schedule a veterinary examination.

Do not assume that every itchy dog needs oatmeal shampoo.

Let your veterinarian determine whether there is an allergy, infection, parasite, yeast problem, or other medical cause. Then allow your veterinarian and groomer to choose products that match the actual condition.

Conclusion

Oatmeal shampoo became popular because it was marketed as the gentle answer for itchy dogs. That does not mean it is the best choice.

Professional groomers often avoid it because it may not clean well, does not treat most causes of itching, can be a poor choice for yeast prone skin, and is frequently requested by owners when another product would work better.

When your groomer recommends something other than oatmeal shampoo, there is usually a reason. The goal is not to use the most familiar product. The goal is to use the product that is actually right for your dog.

Before You Bring Your Own Shampoo

Ask your groomer before bringing a bottle from home or instructing them to use oatmeal shampoo.

Your groomer may already have a professional product that is better suited to your dog’s skin, coat, odor, grease level, or grooming needs.

Bringing your own shampoo may also affect the grooming service. Some salons charge extra for owner-supplied or specialty products, while others prefer not to use outside products at all.

What Pet Owners Should Do Instead

If your dog has persistent itching, redness, odor, hair loss, greasy skin, recurring ear trouble, sores, or other ongoing skin problems, schedule a veterinary examination.

Do not assume that every itchy dog needs oatmeal shampoo.

Conclusion

Oatmeal shampoo became popular because it was marketed as the gentle answer for itchy dogs. That does not mean it is the best choice.

Dog Breed Spotlight: The Miniature Schnauzer

Sat, 16 Aug 2025 08:33:40 GMT

Miniature Schnauzer Breed Guide

Let's Talk About the Miniature Schnauzer

If you've ever met a Miniature Schnauzer, you know they're convinced they're the biggest dog in the room. With their unmistakable beard, expressive eyebrows, and confident personality, these spirited little dogs pack a whole lot of charm into a compact package.

Originally bred as hardworking farm dogs to hunt rats and keep vermin under control, today's Miniature Schnauzers are loving family companions that want to be involved in everything you're doing. They're intelligent, loyal, entertaining, and full of personality. They may be small in size, but they carry themselves with the confidence of a much larger dog.

Breed Snapshot

Miniature Schnauzers typically stand 12 to 14 inches at the shoulder with a sturdy, nearly square build. Their distinctive beard, bushy eyebrows, and alert expression make them one of the easiest breeds to recognize.

Their coat is a double coat consisting of a wiry outer coat over a soft undercoat. The traditional show coat is hand-stripped to maintain its crisp texture, although most family pets are clipped for easier maintenance.

The three colors recognized by the current AKC breed standard are:

Salt & Pepper
Black
Black & Silver

You may also see white Miniature Schnauzers, and they can be AKC registered. However, white is not an accepted color under the current AKC breed standard for conformation showing.

You may also come across breeders advertising "rare" colors such as liver (chocolate), merle, parti, wheaten, or other unusual colors. Don't let the word rare fool you into thinking they're more desirable or valuable. Responsible breeders place their focus on health, temperament, and preserving the breed rather than producing fad colors.

While Miniature Schnauzers are considered a low-shedding breed, they are definitely not a low-maintenance breed.

Grooming Needs

If you're thinking about bringing home a Miniature Schnauzer, regular grooming should be part of the plan. That iconic beard and those expressive eyebrows don't stay looking great without routine care.

Most owners should expect to visit the groomer every 4 to 12 weeks , depending on how long they prefer to keep the coat and how much maintenance they're willing to do at home.

Many owners choose a shorter Schnauzer trim because it's easier to maintain, stays cleaner between appointments, and honestly, we think the Schnauzers appreciate it too.

Between grooming appointments, you should:

Brush and comb several times each week.
Keep the beard clean after meals and messy adventures.
Check the ears regularly.
Keep nails trimmed.
Remove small tangles before they turn into mats.

A little maintenance at home goes a long way toward making grooming appointments easier and more comfortable for your dog.

Health Considerations

Miniature Schnauzers are generally a healthy, long-lived breed, but there is at least one health concern every owner should know about: bladder stones .

This breed has a higher risk of developing urinary stones than many other breeds. Fortunately, there are steps owners can take to help reduce that risk before stones ever become a problem. Feeding an appropriate diet, encouraging plenty of fresh water, maintaining a healthy weight, and following your veterinarian's recommendations can all play an important role in supporting urinary health. If your veterinarian recommends a prescription urinary diet, it's important to stick with it.

Even with the best care, stones can still occur. Watch for frequent urination, straining, accidents in the house, blood in the urine, or signs of discomfort while urinating. If you notice any of these symptoms, schedule a veterinary appointment promptly.

Miniature Schnauzers are also predisposed to elevated blood fat levels (hyperlipidemia), which can increase the risk of pancreatitis. Feeding a quality diet, limiting fatty table scraps, maintaining a healthy weight, and following your veterinarian's recommendations can go a long way toward helping prevent problems. Responsible breeders should also perform recommended eye examinations and appropriate genetic testing.

Personality & Training

One of my favorite things about Miniature Schnauzers is their personality. They're incredibly intelligent, eager to learn, and happiest when they're included in family life. They love having a job, whether that's learning tricks, going for walks, competing in agility, or simply supervising everything happening around the house.

They're also known for being vocal dogs. Miniature Schnauzers make wonderful little watchdogs and aren't shy about letting you know when someone is at the door or something catches their attention. Some can even learn to "talk" and say phrases like "I love you." It's adorable if you're the owner. Grouchy neighbors may not always appreciate their conversations quite as much.

Rescue or Breeder?

Whether you're looking for a puppy from a responsible breeder or hoping to adopt, take your time and do your homework. A reputable breeder should be happy to answer questions, discuss health testing, and let you meet the parents whenever possible. If you're interested in adoption, Miniature Schnauzers regularly find themselves looking for loving homes through breed-specific rescues.

American Miniature Schnauzer Club (AMSC)
https://amsc.us/

AMSC Rescue
https://amsc.us/rescue/

Miniature Schnauzers in Las Vegas

If you're looking for training classes, dog sports, or simply a great way to meet other dog lovers, Las Vegas has several excellent clubs that welcome newcomers. Whether you're interested in basic obedience or competitive events, these organizations are a wonderful resource for both you and your Miniature Schnauzer.

Silver State Kennel Club (Las Vegas)
https://www.silverstatekennelclub.com/

All-breed conformation, obedience, and AKC events.

Vegas Valley Dog Obedience Club
https://vvdoc.org/

AKC-licensed club offering puppy classes, obedience training, performance events, and trials.

Looking for something outside Southern Nevada? The AKC Club Search Tool can help you locate clubs throughout the country.

AKC Club Search Tool
https://www.apps.akc.org/club-search/

Las Vegas Heat and Your Pet: Emergency First Aid for Heat Stroke

Fri, 15 Aug 2025 07:03:40 GMT

Las Vegas Heat and Your Pet: Emergency First Aid for Heat Stroke

Living in Las Vegas means we're no strangers to scorching summers. But while we can duck into air conditioning or grab an icy drink, our pets are far more vulnerable to heat related illness. Heat stroke in dogs can happen in minutes and for certain breeds like Pugs, Bulldogs, and Shih Tzus, the risk is even higher.

In this post, we'll walk you through how to spot heat stroke, what to do in an emergency, and how to create a pet heat stroke first aid kit including a lesser known lifesaving tip for brachycephalic ("smash face") breeds.

Why Las Vegas Heat is So Dangerous for Pets

In the Mojave Desert, summer temperatures can easily top 110°F. Unlike humans, dogs and cats don't sweat across their bodies, they cool themselves primarily through panting and cooler air that circulates through their layers of coat. On hot days, panting simply isn't enough to keep up, especially for:

Brachycephalic breeds (Pugs, French Bulldogs , English Bulldogs, Shih Tzus, Boston Terriers)
Overweight pets
Older pets or those with health issues
Dark-coated animals, which absorb heat faster

Even brief exposure like a short walk on asphalt or time in an unshaded yard can lead to dangerous overheating.

Signs of Heat Stroke in Dogs & Cats

Watch closely for early symptoms. The faster you recognize heat stress, the better your pet's chances.

Early Warning Signs

Excessive panting or difficulty breathing
Bright red gums and tongue
Drooling or thick, sticky saliva
Lethargy, confusion, or unsteady walking

Severe Signs (Emergency!)

Vomiting or diarrhea (possibly with blood)
Collapse or inability to stand
Seizures
Unresponsiveness

If you see any severe signs, treat it as a life-threatening emergency.

Emergency First Aid for Heat Stroke

While your first step should always be to head straight to the nearest veterinary clinic, immediate action while on the way there can save your pet's life.

Do This While in Transit to the Vet

Move your pet to a cool, shaded area or into an air conditioned car.
Begin cooling immediately:
Wet your pet with cool (not ice cold) water especially on the belly, armpits, and paws.
Use a fan to increase evaporation.
Offer small amounts of cool water but don't force them to drink.
For brachycephalic breeds, if they appear to be struggling with airway swelling, a small amount of lemon juice (a few drops on the tongue) may help break up thick mucus and open the airway just enough until you reach the vet. (This is a short-term aid, not a cure and should never replace veterinary care.)

Build Your Pet Heat Stroke First Aid Kit

Having a dedicated kit in your home and car can make a huge difference.

Include:

Digital thermometer (for pets, normal is 100–102.5°F)
Spray bottle filled with cool water
Instant cold packs (wrapped in a towel for use)
Small battery powered fan
Absorbent towels
Bottled water
Collapsible water bowl
Small container of lemon juice (for brachycephalic breeds)
Emergency vet contact list and directions

Prevention is Always Best

While first aid is critical, preventing heat stroke should be every Las Vegas pet parent's priority:

Walk pets early in the morning or after sunset.
Avoid hot asphalt it can burn paws in seconds.
Provide constant shade and fresh water outdoors.
Never leave pets in a parked car not even for "just a minute."

Bottom Line

Las Vegas summers are no joke, and heat stroke can kill quickly. Recognize the signs, keep a first aid kit ready, and always seek veterinary help immediately. For brachycephalic breeds, those few drops of lemon juice could help buy precious time—but nothing replaces fast, professional care.